I've been noticing my remote oil filter lines have been weeping. Both the filter/cooler and engine/filter lines. Oil residue has been piling up for probably 5 years. I just don't drive it that much. It's only got 150k miles on it. I haven't lost pressure yet, but it makes me nervous.
http://imgur.com/CEc15KI
http://imgur.com/b8O7t6I

So, I went to O'Reilly and got new Dorman sets for both lines. I should've read about them online first, it seems. I replaced the filter/cooler lines with no problems. But the engine/filter lines are a little different. I was all ready to go, except to get the rear engine connection loose. Then I saw the problem:
http://imgur.com/T3vI9Eh
https://i.imgur.com/CpKSSYL.jpg

I read that most people went in from the front w/ a bunch of extensions on a ratchet to get the line screw out (circled in red), so I think I could do that. But, WTF am I supposed to do w/ that mount bar (circled in green) going BETWEEN the lines?!? I can loosen it at the trans cover, but the engine side fastener is even harder to reach. I don't think I can reach it from any direction.

Also, it sounds like the best way to do this is to remove the screw circled in red, not the two circled in blue, right?

Assuming I have to finagle the new lines into place from the front of the block to the back, there's no way to get the fitting to the receiver unless I move that bar. I can't go around the bar because everything's rigid. I can't thread the bar through the hard lines without completely taking it out... right?

I've been reading threads about these lines being a pain to replace. It seems deleting the filter is not really an option for the '94 4WD vehicle, because it's so tight at the engine interface. If there's no easy way to get around that bar, I'm at the point where I'm willing to cut the existing one and do the hose clamp + hydraulic hose method. Kinda nervous about using just hose clamps instead of crimped fittings, though it seems a lot of people have used them effectively. Crimped hydraulic hose would be best, but that would still require I take the current lines off, so that's not going to work.

Any advice on either how to get around the situation w/ the bar or whether I can rely on hose clamps to hold the oil pressure? My wife drives this daily and I'm not sure she'd know what to do if the oil pressure suddenly crashed. Thus, I want to make sure the connection is solid.

 

Well. I gave up on replacing the lines. I went to NAPA, bought some hose, and double clamped each end w/ hose clamps.
https://i.imgur.com/3v8lTPx.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/uHnEyW3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/SXM1DDA.jpg

My other objectives were to replace the water pump, thermostat, and radiator hoses. I just got everything back together, hooked the battery up. But when I get inside to start it, the fuel pump comes on, radio and inside lights come on, but it won't even turn over. Volt meter shows 12V on the battery.

Any ideas what I forgot?

 

Well, somehow, in the last 48 hrs, from when I parked my blazer to start work, to tonight, my starter has locked up. No problem starting prior to all this work. Things only 1 to 2 yrs old.

Anyway, I'll reply back with the success of my oil line fix once I can start it...

Edit: got the starter checked at O'Reilly. No problems! Worked fine. Next I'm going to check the solenoid wire (the small one) to the starter for voltage.

 

Well, after many hours of troubleshooting and trying things. I found my problem.

Minor issue: found this open wiring near the battery. Not completely broken through, but not in good shape. I think it goes to the alternator. Fixed it. https://i.imgur.com/KRbh7mo.jpg

Since my starter tested fine, I traced the starter solenoid wire backwards. That led me to my newly installed water pump and something stood out:
https://i.imgur.com/wb2Qbn3.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/ndkKsGb.jpg

Fearing the worst, I took the shroud, fan, and water pump back off... again. Yep, I crushed the wire between the left water pump port and the engine block.
https://i.imgur.com/G0DQfIe.jpg
https://i.imgur.com/hnxKjRk.jpg

Tomorrow I'll be rerouting the wire AWAY from this area and reinstalling everything.

 

I find that taking pictures while diss-assembly, helps for re-routing during re-assembly.

 

I am doing my oil filter lines tomorrow. I havent even bothered to look at it, just took the cover plate off, I am going through a litre every few days. So I just have to get dirty and get to it.

 

Update:
It's been several months since doing this replacement. Here are some observations:

The dual hose clamp joints seem to be holding fine. No leaks!

One day recently, the blazer seemed to suddenly run horribly while I was out and about. Went home and was working through some other stuff when I noticed there was light oil leakage around the oil cooler rigid line connection to the cooler in the radiator side wells. Heat cycling over the first few months after replacing the lines must have caused the fittings to loosen up. I cannot be sure this was causing loss of oil pressure leading to engine stuttering, but it's my best guess at this moment.

Be warned: go back and re-tighten those fittings after a month or so!