The new MPS had no effect.

I ran across the old wires and swapped the coil to distributor wire, but no soap.

My money is on the CPS .... we'll see ...

 

I REPLIED the other day.... hmmmmm seems gone.

Again: Replaced the CPS still no start no spark. throws code P0336 CPS A circuit
range/performance.

Odd that it throws a code now with the new one, but not the old one?

Does this info spark anyone's knowledge base of the issue?

thanks

 

thanks.

The tach needle does not even pretend to move while cranking. ...ONCE just once it jump a tiny bit while I was fidgeting with the key, not cranking.

The coil is plug in, no terminals ... so testing while cranking would require wire splicing or something.

 

Still trying to figure this out.

Currently want to trouble shoot the ign switch wiring.

How do I get past the tilt lever to get that cover off?

thanks

 

OK, more testing.

Key on good power at the coil connector

good continuity from the coil plug to the ICM plug on both the pick and white/black wires

dismounted and opened up the PCM. everything I could access looked factory new and fine.

Coil tests in spec primary and secondary.(just like the old one it replaced)

still no spark no start. still throws code p0336

 

Theres a couple of torque screws, and the lever just pulls out, you gotta pull hard.

 

Just 5 cents worth.

If the code is P0336 which is the CPS. I would go and check that signal from the sensor first. Make sure the signal gets at least from the CPS to the harness. Should have several connecting points. Probably one close to the sensor. Turning the engine over by hand or with starter should yield a voltage signal.

The PCM will never do anything without that signal. No ignition and most probably also no injection. Without the CPS it's not even aware that the engine is turning.
Check the sensor wiring all the way to the PCM. You may have disturbed that wire while swapping the distributor and if it had previous damage (rodents, chafing, whatever) I have experienced cases where the slight movement when changing something else has grounded that wire and all on a sudden - no signal, no start.

 

Thank you. I find it odd that the new part throws the code and the old one didn't.

I have been looking over my wiring for weeks. I have no rodent damage and never saw any chaffing or corrosion. ( i did not open all the corrugated protective tubing). I see no problems with any wiring or connections. The wiring is in nice appearance for this old bucket. I should get some photos up. may be tonight.

The grounds are all good. I even grounded the engine/battery neg and body externally.

My thoughts are going to that ring which triggers the CPS. How much work in getting a look at that? What is the procedure?

My idea is to try and peek through the hole where the cps mounts and check for movement while turning the engine. Is this correct?

thanks

 

If I understand you correctly, those are the screws I removed from the lower cover.

And nothing holds the handle on but friction?

I am afraid to try that

Can a bunch of you all confirm this before I destroy my lever?

Thanks

 

Uggggh, distributor failure. I had one go on me just before I went in to a parking lot. No idea what happened but $150 later ? It ran fine.

Then something else went, but.. Distributor.. Truck really does run great, almost like that is a tune-up item.

When my engine came it did not have the distributor in it and we had to re-use the old one.

I do believe that if the dash has a tachometer (my 1996 does not, even the digital Gen1 dashes do I think. . I do not exactly remember but. Anyways) that it will move consistent with engine rotation, even if cranking but not starting. I think.