Replacing LIM gaskets & misc. items
#1
Replacing LIM gaskets & misc. items
Just starting this new thread, as I'm replacing the LIM gaskets on my 2002 Blazer 4x4 4 door LS. While I have the engine apart, I'm doing oil cooler lines, radiator and hoses, heater core, oil cooler lines, fuel injector assembly, water pump and fan clutch, and some smaller maintenance stuff like the thermostat, fuel filter, rear defrost, door hinge pins, etc.
I had all day yesterday to get started on it, and got all the way down to pulling off the lower manifold and removing the radiator. My biggest issue was leaking oil, which was happening from every conceivable area around the engine. The LIM gaskets had already been replaced, but the RTV sealant that the last guy used hadn't sealed against the lower block at all, causing all kinds of leakage. Also, the valve cover gaskets were worn out and leaking, so I know those weren't replaced. The gasket for the fuel injector assembly was all stretched out and bent, leading me to believe that it wasn't put back together properly last time.
A couple of things I ran into that were different from the instructions I've been following at this link:
--On my Blazer, I don't have an EGR tube. It's just not there. I just happily skipped that step.
--I coiled around the AC compressor hoses and put the compressor above the battery on the left side of the engine bay. Clears things up a lot more, I feel.
--I removed the air intake assembly completely. It's easy to do and gives you a lot more room for my next point.
--The AC compressor bracket bolts weren't as bad as advertised. With the air intake assembly out, that 5th bolt comes off easily.
I replaced the oil cooler lines with some well reviewed, but cheaper aftermarket parts, and let me tell you, they are atrocious. The lines weren't properly bent, which made it impossible to fit them onto the oil filter housing. I had to take tools and carefully bend them more just to get them to fit. If i were to do it again, I'd get the OEM ones. I haven't replaced the cooler lines to the engine yet, but I heard it's a real treat, so we'll see how that goes.
I can't get the oil filter off by hand. It's like it's taunting me. I may have to get a filter wrench - I noticed that if it were to break loose, my knuckles would be razed against an inconveniently placed bolt.
More updates to come! Still planning on replacing spark plugs, converting to MFI injection with a whole new assembly, and replacing the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fuel filter, heater core, and more. I get one day a week to do this stuff, so updates will come slowly but surely.
I had all day yesterday to get started on it, and got all the way down to pulling off the lower manifold and removing the radiator. My biggest issue was leaking oil, which was happening from every conceivable area around the engine. The LIM gaskets had already been replaced, but the RTV sealant that the last guy used hadn't sealed against the lower block at all, causing all kinds of leakage. Also, the valve cover gaskets were worn out and leaking, so I know those weren't replaced. The gasket for the fuel injector assembly was all stretched out and bent, leading me to believe that it wasn't put back together properly last time.
A couple of things I ran into that were different from the instructions I've been following at this link:
--On my Blazer, I don't have an EGR tube. It's just not there. I just happily skipped that step.
--I coiled around the AC compressor hoses and put the compressor above the battery on the left side of the engine bay. Clears things up a lot more, I feel.
--I removed the air intake assembly completely. It's easy to do and gives you a lot more room for my next point.
--The AC compressor bracket bolts weren't as bad as advertised. With the air intake assembly out, that 5th bolt comes off easily.
I replaced the oil cooler lines with some well reviewed, but cheaper aftermarket parts, and let me tell you, they are atrocious. The lines weren't properly bent, which made it impossible to fit them onto the oil filter housing. I had to take tools and carefully bend them more just to get them to fit. If i were to do it again, I'd get the OEM ones. I haven't replaced the cooler lines to the engine yet, but I heard it's a real treat, so we'll see how that goes.
I can't get the oil filter off by hand. It's like it's taunting me. I may have to get a filter wrench - I noticed that if it were to break loose, my knuckles would be razed against an inconveniently placed bolt.
More updates to come! Still planning on replacing spark plugs, converting to MFI injection with a whole new assembly, and replacing the radiator, water pump, fan clutch, fuel filter, heater core, and more. I get one day a week to do this stuff, so updates will come slowly but surely.
#5
Ditto to also doing the valve cover gaskets. We don't have to tell you how much of a hassle it is just to get in there so you might as well replace them.
#6
I got the Fel-Pro premium kit with all the rings and gaskets, so I'll be doing the valve covers as well. I'm in the stage of thoroughly cleaning all of the mating surfaces, which is a royal pain. What do you guys use for cleaning an engine? I've been using brake parts cleaner so far, which seems to get off that hard buildup that develops around the gaskets. The downside is I'm not in a well ventilated area, and after about 15 minutes I have to get some fresh air
I'm beginning to worry I won't have this one done for Memorial Day weekend... but I'd rather take my time and do it right than rush things along and f**k the whole thing up.
I'm a little worried about which RTV sealant to use, as the last guy's sealant failed catastrophically - it was a significant leaking point. Should I use what came with the Fel-Pro kit, or go get something else? Does anyone have any recommendations?
I'm beginning to worry I won't have this one done for Memorial Day weekend... but I'd rather take my time and do it right than rush things along and f**k the whole thing up.
I'm a little worried about which RTV sealant to use, as the last guy's sealant failed catastrophically - it was a significant leaking point. Should I use what came with the Fel-Pro kit, or go get something else? Does anyone have any recommendations?
#8
jacked_72 suggested the following: "Get yourself some Ultra Black or Ultra Grey if you’re doing the lower intake."
#9
I knew there was a recent post about the Fel-Pro RTV not being any good. I found it here: https://blazerforum.com/forum/2nd-ge...erience-96716/
jacked_72 suggested the following: "Get yourself some Ultra Black or Ultra Grey if you’re doing the lower intake."
jacked_72 suggested the following: "Get yourself some Ultra Black or Ultra Grey if you’re doing the lower intake."
Last edited by LesMyer; 05-19-2018 at 09:32 PM.
#10
I have used penetration oil to start dissolve stubborn deposits with quite some success and afterwards for the cleaning with brake or carb cleaner as other members did.
I like to have a palette-knive or scrapers. A small, narrow one and a bit larger, nicely sharpened.
I like to have a palette-knive or scrapers. A small, narrow one and a bit larger, nicely sharpened.