It sure sounds worse than a lifter to me. Hard to tell, though.

 

Will a compression test yield any clues?

What is the relationship between a valve and a lifter?

Here are two videos from the timing light. The light is hard to pick up by the camera. It seems to be in sync with the noise MOST of the time; Sometimes, the light seems to flash faster, which is weird. This is the first time I have had the light on a V-6 and I'm not quite sure what I am looking at. Did my best to capture this in two videos.

The last Blazer, did the same thing.. whatever noise it was, it echoed all over the engine bay and was almost impossible to tell what it was. People telling me everything from "flywheel bolts" to... yeah.

How long do you think this engine has, and what do you think the NEXT thing I should do is?

 

Well, it does seem to be valvetrain-related, but it's louder and sounds more "solid" than any lifter tick I've ever heard. Hard to say how long it will last. It could run for months, or it could blow up tomorrow. If you're planning on replacing the engine at some point (which it sounds like you are) and you can afford to do it now, I would do it now for the peace of mind. Buy the Goodwrench engine, have it installed by a reputable shop, and enjoy your 100k mile warranty.

If you choose to drive it until it fails catastrophically, it will cost you the same, plus a core charge and a tow bill. Totally up to you.

 

Well, that sounds like good news! I would put the light on another cylinder, but those wires are SO hard to get to. I used to be able to get to each one, with an array of two extensions and two flex joints and get to each one from the top. But I have not done that in awhile.

Let me think... okay, I can finally SEE the oil on the dipstick. Level is full. Am I understanding that thicker oil is NOT helping me here?

Should a compression test be done?

Did yours "drive perfectly" at sometimes, like mine did?

Are the valves under the lifters? Seems they have to be..

I DO see a performance engine I like in Paterson NJ for about $2000. Is a "Promar." Should I set my sights on that one? And just add the ~$900 to put it in, call it three grand, and boom, performance engine?

I could achieve a result of a running engine for half of that but.. or, further diagnosis on this one. If I pull the wires at the cap, won't I be shocking myself? Or is that only when I go to out them back on ?

*by the way, the only reason I haven't done anything about it yet is things will ONLY go bad with your car when you're broke, and I am starting a new job Monday. I'll save up for whatever option this board helps me decidenupon. So far, I have found no local indies willing to take on the job. I did find someone to do the engine change on my Gen1 but that is in the past. Unless anyone knows of a good wrench in Central NJ that might be an option for me.

 

The valves are in the head and the lifters are in the block. Pushrods and rocker arms connect them.

Personally, I would (and did) buy the Goodwrench engine, but it's up to you.

 

I haven't ruled that out. But, to be clear, you are saying you prefer the Goodwrench to the Promar?

And, a quick "another question:" This ad seems to group the engines into "1987-1998" and "1999-2006" camps. Apparently, there was a change to the engines in 1999.. though, I always thought that if you had "1996 and up," then you had the newer design, with the newer and less problematic inspectors; and 1994/5 you had the "better flowing heads" ?1994 of course the last year of a Gen1, 1995 the first year of Gen2 body style, a "cross over" year.. ???

Here is a link to the engine I keep talking about https://www.ebay.com/itm/Remanufactu...oAAOSwAYtWITrW

I also just saw a video.. seems you use pliers to pull the spark plug wires. I may do this now.. and film it.

 

Its a lifter clacking, but it's probably due to low oil pressure from a worn bearing or two. Did you listen to mine in my link - just like yours.

There are far more than 2 versions of the 4.3 V6. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Genera...2%B0_V6_engine

For used engines out of Blazers you need to stay with 1996-2000 since 2001-2004 use a different knock sensor that takes a different size hole in the block. GM Goodwrench engine 12491865 that is specific for yours is for 1996-1998. IIRC the 1999-2000 has roller rockers but would also work for both - not sure why they sell another engine.

compression test isn't going to tell you anything about your noise.

Just get it clacking heavily and shut it off. The pull the valve covers and feel which rocker you can depress towards the lifter with hand pressure. That is the one that has collapsed. If none can be depressed, roll the engine over one full turn and try again.

 

LesMyer, I saw your message from the other day. I apologize. I was totally freaking out at that time.

Here is the latest. And I cannot get to the 4, 5, 6 wires...


(there is a Part 1. And I think my distributor cap is suspect)

This one.

 

Still though.. even if I find that cylinder.

Maybe I need a new engine, anyways.

500 tor a used, 8-900 to put it in, hopefully I dont get murdered on the shipping, tbe EBay ones say shipping but have high miles.. I wonder. That way, I would have a new (working) engine IN the car.. for less than the price of a Goodwrench. Maybe to revisit at a later date though, so I have a car that works until i can get the good.. I know that sounds dumb, but, ?

 

Here is that Part 1, I wonder if new engine comes with new distributor cap. New plugs and wires while engine is out and before it goes in..