2001. New hear bear with me. The engine started runing rough like it was missing (200000+miles). I changed the plugs they really didn't look bad. the cap broke pulling off the wires looking for the miss. I thought that was the prob. replaced the cap, wires. same prob. The motor idles real rough but smooths out after 2000 and up. but my fuel consumtion has tripled!! the codes read bad coolant temp? ,ignition,coil,vacum leak,tps. the temp is normal and the prob doesnt change cold or hot. all the vacum lines seem fine. ive had tps probs with my dodge truck and don't think thats the prob. the parts guy says its the 02 sencor he had the same prob. why didn't that code pop up? and it has burnt out the plastic t going to the smog pump twice. i put a brass t in. plz help i had to borrow cash to replace the parts listed.

 

A guess would be to check to see if there is a wire harness around where the plastic Tee burnt off (that probably burnt because of bad smog pipe check valve?) see that the failing sensors are getting voltage to them and there are no wire harness shorts.

 

Ok batt cable disconect for 1 hr. started great ran good for 5 mins. then went back to crap!! took it back to get the puter read again. it said #6 injector was the prob.. no other codes? $70 for the injector $350 for the whole spider? and they said i might break stuff replacein it du to the miles? I need thoughts on this.

 

I second the check valve issue. The ONLY reason for that rubber 'T' to burn out is from a bad check valve on one of the banks (2 check valves total). If a check valve is bad, it could be allowing air into the exhaust that the PCM is not expecting (as it would when the air pump is commanded on) throwing off the O2 sensor readings. I would get the AIR (air injection reaction) system fixed first and then see how everything goes.

 

The T seems to be a secondary prob. and why would that make my fuel rate increase? SWARTLKK Think about it! did you read my last post?

 

Yes I did read your post. Did you think about it? A leaking check valve can not only result in hot exhaust leaking out and burning up the rubber components that are supposed to be on the cold side of the system, but also result in letting in free O2 into the exhaust. If more free oxygen is getting pulled into the exhaust between pulses from the cylinders, it would skew the O2 sensor readings making the PCM think the exhaust is lean, not rich.

It would be fairly simple to test for a stuck injector... A simple fuel pressure & leak down test should give you insight as to whether there's a leak. As would pulling the #6 plug and looking at it...

But if you are going to have a crappy attitude, no thanks. I don't play that game. Good luck with your problem.

 

LOL didn't mean to **** you off. and when i said "think" i meant as in another prob other than the check valve, because you didn't reply about the injector code or fuel consumption. SORRY BRO Second i think it is the injector the engine had a miss when i got it. The guy i got it from said he never changed the plugs or wires in 200000. miles so i had those changed. the miss was still there. thats why im thinking the injector finally went out and is just dumping fuel. is that possible?

My truck barley idles. but at 2500+ rpms smooths out. But its eating fuel! It has new fuel pump, plugs,wires and cap. The only code says #6 injector? Ive heard check valve and 02 sencor? seems to run ok when started cold for the first few minutes? HELP plz!!

 

Have you done anything about the #6 injector? Made sure it is opening or closing? If it was stuck open it would put out fuel constantly.

There are lots of possibilities but you're going to need to rule somestuff out first. Just about every sensor can be checked for proper operation with a diagnostic scan. Not just a scan to check for codes. I would start there and see what you have going on. Worst case scenario is a bad injector I would think.

 

Thanx TZ No not sure how to check just 1 injector. If it is just that injector why does it run good for for a few mins till it warms up. If i pull the plug and its wet? then pull another to see if its wet too? i understand if all plugs are wet diff prob.

 

So that would mean its runs good in open loop?then it warms up into closed loop and fails?
As far as the check valve goes, you should be able to pull the hose off of it/them and NO exhaust should be blowing out of it/them while running.