RPM question.
#1
Starting Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location:
Posts: 136

It's not a problem that I know of so I'm not worrying, just curious.
On cold starts when its like freakin 25F or somewhere around there is it common for it to idle about 1000rpm?
I know when its warm out it idles around 500rpm.
Just a curious "parent" if you get my point.
On cold starts when its like freakin 25F or somewhere around there is it common for it to idle about 1000rpm?
I know when its warm out it idles around 500rpm.
Just a curious "parent" if you get my point.
#2
What does it idle at after the engine has reached operating temp? It is normal for a higher idle when the engine is cold. And 1000RPM doesn't seem excessive for a cold idle speed, but it should drop down to 600-700RPM when warmed up and transmission in park.
#3
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 19

The 4.3L astrovan, at -45 below zero
1100 rpm for about a minute
1000 rpm for about 3 minutes
800 rpm after that
The 4.3L blazer, at -45 below zero
1000 rpm for about 2 minutes
800 rpm for about 2 minutes
650 rpm after that
This is assuming its plugged in and not frozen up...
1100 rpm for about a minute
1000 rpm for about 3 minutes
800 rpm after that
The 4.3L blazer, at -45 below zero
1000 rpm for about 2 minutes
800 rpm for about 2 minutes
650 rpm after that
This is assuming its plugged in and not frozen up...

#4
BF Veteran
Join Date: May 2005
Location: Central Illinois
Posts: 3,891











yes those numbers would be normal.
I would let it sit and idle until it drops down to normal operating rpms before I shifted into drive. I also shift it into gear and let is idle for another minute on really cold days. The tranny fluid is just as thick and needs to thin out as well. The trouble with the tranny is it doesn't generate heat until its moving, it counts on heat transfer from teh radiaotr to warm up the fluid. The engine coolant stays in the engine block until it gets warmer and the thermostat opens. Sarting and driving immediately is extremely bad for both the engine and tranny. Make sure they give them time to cycle some lubrication before you drive off.
My own kids still have a hard time grasping this concept. Or they thinkt he old man is nuts, turn the key and go is thier philosopy when I aint looking. It works, yea, it will for a while. but one day it wont and then you looking at major repair bills or replacement.
good question, and sorry for giving you the long response.
I would let it sit and idle until it drops down to normal operating rpms before I shifted into drive. I also shift it into gear and let is idle for another minute on really cold days. The tranny fluid is just as thick and needs to thin out as well. The trouble with the tranny is it doesn't generate heat until its moving, it counts on heat transfer from teh radiaotr to warm up the fluid. The engine coolant stays in the engine block until it gets warmer and the thermostat opens. Sarting and driving immediately is extremely bad for both the engine and tranny. Make sure they give them time to cycle some lubrication before you drive off.
My own kids still have a hard time grasping this concept. Or they thinkt he old man is nuts, turn the key and go is thier philosopy when I aint looking. It works, yea, it will for a while. but one day it wont and then you looking at major repair bills or replacement.
good question, and sorry for giving you the long response.
#5
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location:
Posts: 49

My blazer always idles at 1000 rpm on cold days, then drops down to 550 rpms.I always let it run atleast 1 min, longer on cold days.
#6
BF Veteran
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: GP AB CA
Posts: 3,946



It's the IAC putting the truck into fast idle mode...
It's an advanced form of choke.
It's an advanced form of choke.
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