I had the water pump pump replaced on Wednesday. They did a great job. The owner of the shop was actually commenting on how well this truck runs (obviously he doesn't know my secret with which oil I use which makes that happen. See my signature). He test drove it himself after they replaced the pump. They even ran it for like 20 minutes and revving it in the shop (obviously with the hose connected to the tailpipe to vent the fumes outside) to check for leaks and to wait for the thermostat to open. They only charged me for a half gallon of antifreeze because they reused what was in there (not a problem since it was changed in July). The only issue I found (after driving 150 miles this evening after it was done) was that the safety lever on the radiator cap was not closed properly/all the way and I don't think the radiator was completely pressurized (It did not overheat at all. Stayed around 190-200 as usual). I opened it and found about 3/4" of open space. The next day, I overfilled the radiator to the brim and the reservoir 3/4 full and fixed the radiator cap (I don't think it was even sealed all the way on Wednesday night after it was done. The lever was stuck up because the tab under it got stuck on the cap. When I lifted it when it was stuck, there was very little pressure in the system. Last night when I did that it sounded like alot of pressure when it was sealed properly.). It came out the overflow several times (yea I know. Stupid), especially after pulling the lever with the radiator still warm, but I was able to determine that the radiator had no open space in it like Wednesday night when there was 3/4" of missing coolant.

But last night I found what seems like a problem. After I stopped the truck after driving with it at the normal 190F, it started to slowly creep past 200, then 210, then the needle started to pass the "0" in 210, which it has never done (unless you count when the radiator blew on the way home from the dealership 4 years ago). I popped the hood and checked for leaks and there was none and everything seemed fine. The confusing part is that in the seconds it took to check it, I went back to check it again and it was normal (185-190F). This was at idle, in Park and the fan was running just fine. It was pretty cold also. The transmission was not hot (the cooler was only about 90-100F as usual), so it can't be that. The thermostat is only 1.5 years old and the coolant was changed twice in that time period. What else could it be? Air in the system?

EDIT: Tonight it did it again. Engine idling and trans in park. It normally stays 2 lines before 210. It very slowly starts creeping toward 2 lines AFTER 210 (never does that normally). Then all of a sudden, it goes right back to normal. The antifreeze is still overfilled and some more came out the overflow in the reservoir. That last part is my fault for putting too much in originally, but the rest isn't. Could this be a sticky thermostat or air? Is it possible to change the thermostat without draining the coolant? Or could that radiator cap have been damaged, but how would that do anything?

 

Got a kick out of your oil comment. Made me laugh for sure!

As far as the rest, you really need to stop fussing over every little thing and drive your truck for cripes sake. You have some serious OCD problems when it comes to your vehicle and are spending tons of time & lots of money chasing things which for all intents & purposes wouldn't have caused you a problem for a very long time. I'm sure your mechanic loves you though!

As far as the rising temps, it could be a sticky t-stat or it could be nothing at all and your truck just likes to mess with you. If it doesn't go to the end of the gauge and always drops back to "normal" (I put that in quotes because 200-205 degrees is normal for a 195 degree stat), quit obsessing and enjoy the truck!

 

Well with the oil, I know it sounds funny and stupid at the same time, but Royal Purple not only makes this thing run quieter and smoother (especially compared to Mobil1), but it starts easier in the cold weather and I even notice a lower amount of metallic particles on the magnetic drain plug. I start this truck often on short trips, so it seems to better protect it. So it must be doing something right. I can also run it longer if I need to so I can do oil changes during college breaks if I do alot of driving.

I don't have OCD problems. This truck does hate me. It was abused by it's previous owner in NYC and was not that well maintained, so it is taking it out on me. The radiator blew on the way home from the dealership and the check engine light went on for a pressure control problem on the trans. The front axle shift fork was also broken and I found that out the hard way when I tried to get up the driveway in a snowstorm just after we got the truck. The TCCM blew 2 weeks later after the previous items were fixed. The dealer only paid for the radiator. I am surprised it has made it this far with only front end, brake, transmission and 4WD problems (the last 2 were in 2007. None have happened recently). Only engine problem was the intake gasket up until now. I try to handle problems before they become severe enough to cause a breakdown or damage other components. I like to get things fixed when the truck is still drivable where I can research on the forum and get several estimates so I don't have to pump extra money into this truck because shops like profits. Can't really do that at the side of the road. In this case, the water pump actually started to leak at 110,000 miles and the mechanic an hour away (about 35 miles from where I go to college) gave me an estimate for $150 to replace it. Other mechanics wanted $250-500 in town to do the exact same thing. In reality, I saved money in this case even after factoring the gas cost (about 2-3 gallons and the price of gas is cheaper where this shop is) and the long side trip I made that night on the way back to get a haircut, dinner and get my watch battery replaced. I am a college student, so I find ways to save money without sacrificing on the quality. I do alot of traveling into remote areas where there is no cell service and I knew this pump was on it's way out so I had it replaced now while I could because it was a college break (with finals coming up, I don't need this truck giving me problems). Better now than later since I need this truck for everything and I don't need it breaking down somewhere and getting gouged for a $500 bill for a water pump. Not to mention the tow bill if AAA refuses to pay for it like they have before.

The temp didn't go that high before the water pump was replaced and it would stay at 190-200F no matter if it is -20 or 100 degrees outside, so I think this is a new problem. I understand that it can go higher at times, but it doesn't go this high on this truck. What causes T-stats to stick? Could it damage a new one? I had that replaced in April 2010 when I had the coolant changed. I had the coolant changed again before I went back to school this semester (every 15k-30k for green and I move it up if I notice the radiator getting really dirty which it was in that case) and the operating temps actually went down a little. Is it possible to change the T-stat without draining the coolant? I think I can do that myself and I might just do that anyway if it is easy and cheap enough.

 

Lots of people say that when comparing pretty much anything to Mobil 1 from my experience. If RP makes you sleep better at night, then continue to pay for their "creative" marketing by using it. It is no different than many of the premium oils out there though as a recent thread on the topic discussed so that's where I'll leave it here.

As far as your condition, many people with such a condition do not admit or often realize that the condition exists.

On the t-stat, debris may have been introduced or knocked loose during the pump change that has caused the plunger to stick a bit. Who knows. It might work its way out. It is rather easy to swap out and doesn't require the entire cooling system to be drained. You'll spill some out and have to re-burp the system after buttoning it back up, but it shouldn't amount to more than a half gallon of coolant lost.

 

I will check out that thread and I would like to hear more about that. Thanks.

I do admit that Royal Purple's marketing tactics are creative and potentially dishonest and I originally doubted that it would be any better, but where I get the oil (If I am in that area: Albany, NY WALMART), it costs less than what Mobil1 or Castrol EDGE costs at an auto parts store and the entire oil change costs less than a conventional oil change anywhere around here since I do it myself. I also do the oil change better than any express lube places around here since I actually care if I damage something or leave grease and oil all over the interior. Plus I grease the front end and check all other fluids under the truck and fill the oil filter so there is never a dry start. Plus I do see the improvements and notice a small increase in gas mileage compared to Mobil1 High Mileage and a bigger increase compared to conventional oils, so I think it is a winner all around for this particular engine and how I use it at least. I do want this engine to last as long as possible without any major work.

Oh really? There is no condition. I got to know this truck and if there is a potential problem when I see one and considering all that I have been through with this truck in the past 4 years, I have learned how to deal with stuff before disaster strikes instead of after. I believe in an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure because I don't want to neglect something, have a major part fail and not be able to afford the fix and then have to scrap the whole truck. That's another reason why this forum and the people on it are very helpful since I can ask and determine if an issue needs to be dealt with now or later and how to fix it properly, cheap and quickly so it doesn't interfere with anything else like college or anything else. That way I waste less time dealing with this truck when I can be doing projects for college. So far it seems to work most of the time because lately the problems have been minor and infrequent compared to last year (knock on wood). This truck is very important because it is my only form of transportation and if something major failed it would cause a major problem for me.

Thank you very much for the advice. As usual, it is very helpful and I appreciate it. I was thinking that might be the case also. So a thermostat it is. I was going to do that anyway, but I wanted confirmation so I am not replacing parts unnecessarily. I will run out and get one then. I already have spare coolant in the trunk (Always prepared for most roadside emergencies. I also have spare fluids for everything else in addition to an emergency kit, jump starter and air compressor, etc. If you wish to call me crazy, go right ahead because you would not be the first or last. LOL) and I will get more to replace my spare gallon (It's 50/50 Prestone premix) after I do this. So basically it is just let it cool overnight, open the rad cap to depressurize it then open the thermostat housing and swap it out (if I can find it)? The burping procedure is the one that involves leaving the radiator cap loose and letting the engine run for a few minutes once it gets to operating temp?

Thanks again.

EDIT: Okay, I got the good Stant thermostat ($14 at Advance Auto) with an integrated. I found a couple videos online and I can use my Droid X to follow along when I do it. (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s_y5z...eature=related or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1uXGa...eature=related (This is for a 5.7, but isn't it the same other than 2 more cylinders?)). I will see if I can take care of this tomorrow.

 

I replaced the thermostat earlier. Took some figuring out with my air intake and the throttle cable bracket getting in the way, but I got it done and it didn't lose much antifreeze, which I soaked up with paper towels. I replaced it and then let it run with the safety lever on the radiator cap lifted until I noticed antifreeze leaking out of it running down the radiator. It only got up to 190F and stayed there. I drove it around and it never went above 190. The replacement worked. Maybe the brown stuff on the old thermostat was the problem. Now all I got to do is figure out how to get rid of the pockets of antifreeze on the block.

 

rags should clean it up