SCFI to MPFI Conversion
#1
SCFI to MPFI Conversion
I have a 1997 Chev Blazer 4.3L V6 that would not start. The problem turned out to be either a leaky SCFI line or the fuel pressure regulator, not sure which was the exact problem since once I removed the upper manifold, I decided to convert to a MPFI. For around $180 on Amazon, you can get an OEM unit (Delphi FJ10565 Fuel Injector). I am posting pictures in case you would like to do the same. I am sorry the picture of the poppet valve is not very sharp, but I can tell you it was full of sludge and all were like this. Probably why I had to use injector cleaner in the fuel tank every 12K miles or so to stop engine ping. I have included a photo of the old SCFI assembly and the finished MPFI assembly installed.
Here are a few notes. Make sure when you remove the upper manifold assembly, you plug the ports with some kind of shop cloth or rag to prevent dropping foreign objects, nuts, bolts and the like into the manifold. Although I used paper towels to clean the intake, I recommend using shop cloths. Paper towels tend to fall apart and leave bits of paper in the manifold. Use choke and carb cleaner but be careful to wear gloves and also don't spray into sensors like the MAP sensor.
You have to adjust the injector tubing as indicated on the drawing. The unit comes with a set of replacement instructions. Ensure the injector tube #3 is routed behind #5 and #1. I have attached a photo of the unit prior to installation.
Install #3 injector first, followed by #5 and #1, with #6, #4, #2 to follow on the right bank. You have to apply a little pressure to orient the electrical connectors inward, but you can do this after the injector is inserted. Be very careful to insert the correct injector into its associated port. Once you insert and seat the injector, I am not sure how to remove it. I labeled each injector with a pen to ensure it was clear when I inserted and seated them.
Overall I am very pleased with the outcome and results. The vehicle runs like new. Once I have it out on the road and can get some MPG checks, I will post results.
Here are a few notes. Make sure when you remove the upper manifold assembly, you plug the ports with some kind of shop cloth or rag to prevent dropping foreign objects, nuts, bolts and the like into the manifold. Although I used paper towels to clean the intake, I recommend using shop cloths. Paper towels tend to fall apart and leave bits of paper in the manifold. Use choke and carb cleaner but be careful to wear gloves and also don't spray into sensors like the MAP sensor.
You have to adjust the injector tubing as indicated on the drawing. The unit comes with a set of replacement instructions. Ensure the injector tube #3 is routed behind #5 and #1. I have attached a photo of the unit prior to installation.
Install #3 injector first, followed by #5 and #1, with #6, #4, #2 to follow on the right bank. You have to apply a little pressure to orient the electrical connectors inward, but you can do this after the injector is inserted. Be very careful to insert the correct injector into its associated port. Once you insert and seat the injector, I am not sure how to remove it. I labeled each injector with a pen to ensure it was clear when I inserted and seated them.
Overall I am very pleased with the outcome and results. The vehicle runs like new. Once I have it out on the road and can get some MPG checks, I will post results.
Last edited by glcblazer; 04-21-2013 at 10:23 AM.
#3
I just did this upgrade myself however the new spider seems to squeal during pre starting pressure build up. And it's not the fuel pump buzzing, it's the actual spider buzzing, and loudly. However when the fuel bleeds back into tank it will not buzz but, if I start it up again soon after a drive, it humms.. My mechanic says he needs to reset my fuel trims. Anyone have any input on this?
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Patrick_Boyle
2nd Generation S-series (1995-2005) Tech
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08-22-2009 05:28 PM