Seeking advice - removing seized engine
#12
Cool thanks. They are both autos. It took me a while to find a donor engine that was the same exact configuration (intake, oil pan, etc)
#13
yep,flywheel will be the same too. But you know,while the engines out. do the lower manifold gaskets. they will fail at one point. and with the engine out,itll be gravy doing em. also do the oil sending unit since the engines out,and you wont have to pull the distributor.
#14
yep,flywheel will be the same too. But you know,while the engines out. do the lower manifold gaskets. they will fail at one point. and with the engine out,itll be gravy doing em. also do the oil sending unit since the engines out,and you wont have to pull the distributor.
Lower intake manifold gaskets? Or something else?
#15
I just went ahead and bought a lower/upper intake manifold kit. I'll do both since the engine is out.
#16
Well, me again, 4 months later, time flies! Thanks for the great advice so far.
I finally got a donor engine, out of a 96 like mine, heard it running before they pulled it. Runs great.
I am finally almost ready to pull the seized engine. I'm going to pull the engine and trans together, then separate them once they are out.
I do have a question. Should I transfer the old flex plate off the seized engine to the new engine? The new engine has a flex plate on it but obviously it was mated to a different transmission. I've read the torque converter and flex plate should remain as a pair.
I sure hope the transmission is ok because I'm not replacing it. I will do the front seal as Ol' Grouch recommended. I'm also going to replace the oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets on the new engine.
Thanks again.
Mark
I finally got a donor engine, out of a 96 like mine, heard it running before they pulled it. Runs great.
I am finally almost ready to pull the seized engine. I'm going to pull the engine and trans together, then separate them once they are out.
I do have a question. Should I transfer the old flex plate off the seized engine to the new engine? The new engine has a flex plate on it but obviously it was mated to a different transmission. I've read the torque converter and flex plate should remain as a pair.
I sure hope the transmission is ok because I'm not replacing it. I will do the front seal as Ol' Grouch recommended. I'm also going to replace the oil pan gasket and valve cover gaskets on the new engine.
Thanks again.
Mark
Many years ago, I dropped a high performance engine into a New Yorker. (I surprised a lot of Camaros and Mustangs with that car, I also nearly lost my license) I put a used engine in the car while I overhauled the original. The flex plate on my transmission was a 10 inch but the one on the spare engine was a 9 inch. Several hours of aggravation later, I pulled the engine, swapped the right flex plate on it, dropped the engine back in and hooked everything up. I'd say nearly 2 1/2 hours of wasted effort.
Make sure the plate matches the transmission converter and bolt that plate to the engine.
#18
hey make sure you do the REAR main seal too - no sense in dropping the transmission just for that - I've got a jimmy with a 'replacement' transmission from the previous owner and I'm pretty sure they skipped it
#19
Thanks, I was thinking about that too. I've read the rear main seal is pretty reliable but maybe not so much.
#20
No, I got tired of the low fuel mileage (7 mpg) and the tire consumption (I over drove two sets of tires.) and sold it to a guy at work. I got one ticket for 124 in a 55 zone. The guy who bought it was going to pull the engine until his wife drove the car and she wanted it. After they over drover a couple of more sets of tires, they parked it. It's still around. There's about 25K on that engine.
Here's a tip. Do NOT drive a 5200 pound car well over 120 on 96 mph rated tires. One buddy was following me in it with a retired police Crown Vic and couldn't keep up. He kept bouncing off the speed limiter. I built the car about 25-30 years ago and have only had a couple of cars that scared me like that one didn't.