Howdy, this is my second post about this issue, but I now have more information

The Known:

-2000 Chevy 4x4 4.3L

-Has sluggish acceleration when mildly accelerating (roughly at 1700 rpm)

-Some days its worse than other, drove to school this morning to get some edumucation and it was between almost every gear, then I drove to work and it was fine

-I have O2 sensor codes up the wazoo, replaced sensors and still have the codes

-Replaced plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, ignition coil pack.

-I have a code I dont know much about when I ran a live test. “FUELSYS1 OL-Fault” and “FUELSYS2 OL-Fault”.

-I also have a P0300 which is a random misfire code for those who arent avid code lovers (who is).

Thanks in advance for any reasons why this is happening or any info on the FUELSYS codes.

 

In trying to back read your older post it was mentioned to clean injectors. Did you do that? Most of your descriptions seem fuel related so I would be looking in that direction. As for codes, and the fuel system faults you fail to mention how your testing nor the actual values and with what tools. If your using say one of the BAFX scan tools and smart phone best to take screen shots of things like long and short term fuel on banks 1 and 2 done at idle, then mid power like around 35mph and then at full hyway speeds. Devil is in the details.

 

Have you checked fuel pressure?

 

The guy in my last post didnt seem to know how to clean the spider injectors, nor do I. For the live data stated I used a OBD2 while on live read at Idle, ill take some pictures. Thanks again.

 

Thats whats next, I have never done that before other than once when I was probably 15 or so. Thanks for the reply and ill make sure to get back to yall when I try it.

 

It's easy, man. There's some really good write ups around here on how to do it, what to look for, etc. Pretty sure a guy named captain hook has some good info written on it.

 

Could try running some sea foam thru system. Would be a 2 point job. 1 is the bottle you pour into gas tank and the 2 is the pressurized spray you would run into throttle body. On that part 2 you SHOULD NOT just spray into air intake nor run engine with air intake assembly removed. You would remove the air intake off top of throttle body, insert part of the long straw that comes with the spray into the left side (side with your throttle linkage) and bend it downward. Place intake back on. Key at this point is to make the spray go directly into throttle body without damaging sensors AND not to loose it and have it get sucked into engine.

So once your happy that straw is secured in place and intake reinstalled fire up engine and warm it up. A thin piece of paper works wonders here. Fold and wedge between throttle cable end and rest plate to achieve about 1700 rpm or so. Then start spraying and dont stop till can empty. Once empty, shut engine off and let it sit. Plenty of videos on YouTube doing this. Point is this whole process is meant to clean up some of the carbon buildup in engine and injectors but it’s no cure all.

If your fuel pressure is poor engine will just run bad or not at all. There are write ups all over forum on testing it. Local autozone should have the free loaner tool you need to test it (just need deposit). Port is hard to miss, looks like a tire valve stem near firewall to right of distributor cap area. You will test initial pressure when key on to start and leak down which is key off and seeing if pressure drops off too much.

Injector testing would be things like using a ODB2 port scan tool for say smart phone, checking both fuel injector banks while car is being driven so bring a friend and looking at the values the computer is trying to set. This testing tells you if injectors are stuck closed, open, leaking etc.