Spark plug wires arcing?
#12
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Just assuming a 4.3 v6. Check air flow sensor may have broken when doing plugs its located pressed in tube attatched to air filter, if sparking problem ignition contol module, both of these can cause studder and poor operation when. Warm. Seem to be common v6 262 4.3 probs....I put an air mass flow on mine and changed air sensor added a aftermarket controller to auto adjust fuel timing and air lots of power and throttle response... their is cylinoid for emmissions if clog will cause hard starting. If u think fuel prob check injectors. Electrical again check cap for crack(s) wires vs firing order... ignition control module, check later have to get to work again...
#14
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Boy there's a lot of BS in here.
The 'blue fire' you see is called 'corona'. It's caused by ionization of air surrounding a high voltage. In other words the air inside the wire is actually conducting spark. That tells you a lot about the wire and conductor quality
Cheaper wires with poor conductors exhibit it much more than quality wires. Add Cheap insulation and it gets worse.
Running quality wires in parallel adjacent to each other will not cause a missfire - as long as they arent rubbing each other. In older wires where the insulation has outgassed and the jacket essentially becomes porous, there will be a possibility of coronal arcing from one to the other.
Example: I had a P0304. I checked the wire and found it crossing the wire to #5.
![Name: GkpVj.jpg
Views: 240
Size: 48.6 KB](https://blazerforum.com/forum/attachments/engine-transmission-35/38490d1683047936-spark-plug-wires-arcing-gkpvj.jpg)
I pulled it away and the missfire quit. I wiped the wire down and wiped on Silicone grease on both and pushed them back together and the missfire didnt come back
I learned way long time ago never to buy the cheapest wires. You dont HAVE to buy the OEM but the cheapest might be worse than what you replace right out of the box.. I've put well over 100,000 miles on several fords before I replaced the OE Motorcrafts and I'm pretty sure Bravadiva still has the factory wires at 111,000.
And btw, the point about Bosch plats is well made. Most Ford guys wont run them, lots of Chevy guys wont run them. I found their problem to be they low-load missfire, at cruise power.
I'm sure if I went one range hotter or changed the gap, that would go away.
But here's the thing- if Bosch engineers cant be bothered to get it right, why should I?
I can buy Motorcraft or AC Delco specified for the car, check the gap as specified and then forget all about them for about 50,000 miles.
The 'blue fire' you see is called 'corona'. It's caused by ionization of air surrounding a high voltage. In other words the air inside the wire is actually conducting spark. That tells you a lot about the wire and conductor quality
Cheaper wires with poor conductors exhibit it much more than quality wires. Add Cheap insulation and it gets worse.
Running quality wires in parallel adjacent to each other will not cause a missfire - as long as they arent rubbing each other. In older wires where the insulation has outgassed and the jacket essentially becomes porous, there will be a possibility of coronal arcing from one to the other.
Example: I had a P0304. I checked the wire and found it crossing the wire to #5.
![Name: GkpVj.jpg
Views: 240
Size: 48.6 KB](https://blazerforum.com/forum/attachments/engine-transmission-35/38490d1683047936-spark-plug-wires-arcing-gkpvj.jpg)
I pulled it away and the missfire quit. I wiped the wire down and wiped on Silicone grease on both and pushed them back together and the missfire didnt come back
I learned way long time ago never to buy the cheapest wires. You dont HAVE to buy the OEM but the cheapest might be worse than what you replace right out of the box.. I've put well over 100,000 miles on several fords before I replaced the OE Motorcrafts and I'm pretty sure Bravadiva still has the factory wires at 111,000.
And btw, the point about Bosch plats is well made. Most Ford guys wont run them, lots of Chevy guys wont run them. I found their problem to be they low-load missfire, at cruise power.
I'm sure if I went one range hotter or changed the gap, that would go away.
But here's the thing- if Bosch engineers cant be bothered to get it right, why should I?
I can buy Motorcraft or AC Delco specified for the car, check the gap as specified and then forget all about them for about 50,000 miles.
Last edited by pettyfog; 01-25-2012 at 07:07 PM.
#15
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Truck turned out to have a Blown Intake-gasket, but wasn't losing alot of fluid. Had nothing to do with arcing of the wires at all.
Sold the blazer, they are junk. All of them. Bought myself an Srt-4 and couldnt be happier.
**** Chevy.
=)
Sold the blazer, they are junk. All of them. Bought myself an Srt-4 and couldnt be happier.
**** Chevy.
=)
#17
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![Icon Banhim](https://blazerforum.com/forum/images/smilies/icon_banhim.gif)
Lol!!! Another sandbagged customer! More think like that, cheaper they are to buy.
- did I mantion that's why I have a Bravada? Oh yeah I guess I did.
Why I LOVED the Ford 3.8l headgasket syndrome.. mucho cheap good cars!
Now.. let's talk SRT-4. Good Luck dude.. Guess your favorite kinda car is 'Cool'. I'm sure that will work out better for you..
,,, since they're now backed by Fiat.. the world leader in automotive quality and reliability!
and Chrysler was always known for their timeless styling leading to the rage for classic Omni's and ****.
Last edited by pettyfog; 01-26-2012 at 05:48 PM.
#18
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Ive seen some things in my days, But this is just insane. Not to fuel the fire, but blazers/jimmys/bravadas are not pieces of crap. Just like any car, you treat it like crap, it will return the favor.
Sounds like the previous owner saw you coming from a mile away, and you bit it.
Good luck with your srt-4 (cant even say that with out laughing)
Sounds like the previous owner saw you coming from a mile away, and you bit it.
Good luck with your srt-4 (cant even say that with out laughing)
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