Well tonight I wanted to see if my 4 wheel drive worked so I took it in my back field to test it out. 2WD to 4WD Hi when just fine. When I went to put it in 4WD LO in neutral, that went fine. When I went to head back to my house I of course wanted 2WD HI, so in neutral I tried. Well I thought maybe you have to got though 4WD Hi first so I tried that, nothing. I tried everything, going forward shifting to neutral then hitting 4ED Hi..... tried the same thing except trying to go to 2WD, then I tried the same thing in reverse......


I tried just about everything. One thing I did notice is that in neutral going to anything you could hear the switch going back and forth back and fourth in the dash. I even tried, like the manual said, to shift into 4WD Hi and while the light is flashing shift into park, that didn't work. I don't know if this helps but I have the "auto track" auto 4WD

Please help

 

Sounds like an encoder issue. Try disconnecting the battery for 15 minutes and then see how it works. If it works, it likely will only be temporary and will probably leave you stranded the first time you need it...

For more indepth diagnosis, we really need to know what transfer case you have. 3-button switch on the dash = NV233, 4-button switch on the dash = NV236. Because you never mentioned Auto, I am assuming that you have the 3-button switch (NV233).

Here are a few links that will be of interest to you:
OBD2 Non-Automatic Transfer Case Diagnostics by lastcoupe & swartlkk
NV233 transfer case / encoding motor switch by error_401

 

Ok I'll try that. As for the transfer case it has 2WD hi, 4WD Hi, 4WD lo, and Auto 4WD so the NV236

If it does work how much would an encoder cost to replace? would it be a do it yourself kinds job or should it be taken to a mechanic.

 

The NV236 is a little more difficult to diagnose unless you have a Tech2 or equivalent full feature scan tool to read the codes.

As far as the cost of the encoder motor, that depends on whether you are talking new or remanufactured. You can check various websites to determine costs.

It is definitely a DIY replacement if you are good with your hands.

Some other things you can try include cleaning all of the electrical connections and checking the resistance when you push each of the buttons on the dash. The post below swill give you the resistance values for the switch:
4x4 Light consistent blink while engaged

 

The disconnect reconnect didn't work, so I guess it's off to the mechanic Monday. The shop is 3 miles away, would I be safe to drive it there at a low speed? say 15mph?


I hope this isn't expensive

 

It wasn't the encoder, or the switch, he said (I can't remember the name) it was something inside the dash. Anyways the part was $550 new or $225 used so I went with the used part

Does that sound right?

 

The TCCM (transfer case control module) is located behind the passenger front kick panel under the dash.

 

Yeah I'm pretty sure that's what he called it, does that sound right for a price?

 

depends, did it have any kind of warrenty? the main wreckers that i usually deal with, offer between 90 and 120 days on these types of parts. they say they check each one they pull, to verify it's in working condition-that's why they pill 'em, 'cause they still work!
as for the prce, i can't remember exactly what i paid for the one i replaced on my buddy's Jimmy last year, but i think it was under $200. was his price just for the part? or was that installed.

 

I think it was a 90 day warranty, $225 used just the part