Ok, I am changing my tranny fluid and I have to take off this $%&#in cross member to get the pan off, so I figure I might as well put in a drain plug as I've seen swart suggest. Anything I need to keep in mind while doing this? Here's what I'm planning on doing so far:

Select a place that is flat

Step-by-step upping the size of the bore hole using progressively sized bits

Tapping right at the size of the bolt I'm planning on using (I was thinking a fairly small size, like 10mm)

Use abolt with a washer and put RTV on it to seal


Anything else I should consider before doing this? I've read it's a good idea to use a cutting compound or fluid, would some trans fluid do the job for this if necessary? I figure this would becheaper to do than pay for a shop to flush it. Basically drain, fill, drive, and by the time this has been done a few times the fluid would be reasonably clean for the cost ofseveral gallons of fluid.

 

Um... I can't figure out if you are planning on putting in the drain plug that I recommended or your own solution... If you are using the B&M add-on plug, then I would use some thread locker (red loctite) on the threads of the fitting, giving ample time for it to setup properly (1-2 hours).

If you are trying it your own way, you will need to weld the nut to the pan.

For either solution, you will need to find a location where the plug will not interfere with anything else...

 

Sorry I didn't realize that there was such a think as an add-on plug solution. I did a search trying to find the thread where you were talking about putting in a plug, but it didn't come up, so I just decided to ask.

That b&m kit looks pretty straightforward. Thanks... getting that brace off was a huge PITA. Lol.

 

If you decide to do either or then take some pics and write up a diy on it!! That would be pretty cool for those in the same situation!!

 

I'm thinking of welding in a bung on my Rainier pan. I'll weld it into the side of the pan to keep it up out of the way.

 

Here is what I did.
'87
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines....nr2/246557.jpg

'00
http://chevytruckworld.tenmagazines....nr2/246548.jpg

How to.
Simple.
drop the pan.
Pick a spot.
Drill a hole.
Put in drain plug kit and make sure you seal the hole between the bolt and nut. First time I used RTV on ht outside, didn't work so well, so I changed to JB Weld. No leaks. I wouldn't add anything to the inside, if it breaks off it could plug up a valve. you dont want that.

 

I did not have any leaks with just using the supplied sealing washer on the outside of the pan. I used loctite 271 (high strength thread locker - red) on the inside to ensure that the internal nut would not come loose. The temperature in the pan should never exceed the temperature required for breaking the bonds in the loctite once cured (in excess of 325F). Once cured, the transmission fluid will not harm it either. You should wait atleast 20 minutes after assembling the drain plug kit before putting transmission fluid into it. And you should wait an hour after assembly to actually drive the vehicle.

JB weld will seal it up good I'm sure and it will hold the fitting onto the pan to resist turning when removing the plug.

I will do a how-to when I do the transmission service on my Rainier, but I will be using a welded in nut on the inside of the pan and a typical oil pan plug to seal. The seal will be made against the pan sheetmetal itself. This is identical to the way that oil pans have been sealed for a VERY long time. The nut doesn't even need to be fully welded onto the inside of the pan, just enough to keep it from breaking loose. I have heard of people using JB Weld to adhere a nut to the inside of a pan, but don't know if I would trust it that much...