Well after putting it off for far too long, it's time to suck it up and replace the clutch. I've searched the forum and have not found much information (maybe I'm not using the proper search terms) as to how to perform this task. Or am I in the minority in that I have a 2wd, a 5spd, and "only" 2 doors? If so.....maybe it's time to compose a "how to" complete with photos. (and maybe video as well) Of course if you have a 4wd or a 4L60e it might not help much. I look at it this way,I have to change the clutch anyway,.......so why not record the process to keep myself on track (my memory isn't what it used to be) and if it helps someone else in the process so much the better. I don't post much but I have learned a lot from this forum, so maybe this is a way to (hopefully) show my appreciation to those of you that have helped so much (whether you know it or not).

First a little background,......the "Dirty Gurl" (as she is affectionately known) is a "Space Blue" 2001 LS 2 door 2 wheel drive with a 4.3 v-6 and a NV 3500 5 speed. I've had her going on 13 years now and over that time she's had some issues. The ABSOLUTE WORST was the "Dreaded P0300"(refer to: Dreaded P0300 caution long post). Next was split radiator tank,followed by a bad bearing in the water pump,and a leaking intake manifold (all of which I believe was due to Dexcool) which I suspect also 'contributed' to the clutch failure as well. There are more issues as well (some resolved and some not at this point) but this is supposed to be about a clutch replacement so lets get on with it.

The clutch is being replaced because of the following: a noisy throw out bearing (almost from day one and could not compel the dealership to fix even under warranty). An occasional "slight" chatter (disk contaminated by Dexcool?) Then there is the issue of slight "gear clash" when shifting into 1st and reverse when cold and occasionally in other gears (mostly downshifts) once everything has reached operating temp. The range between engagement and disengagement is also quite narrow,.....so it's time to GIT R DUN, bust knuckles,swear, and throw tools.

 

Well the deed is done,......so now (hopefully) I can start getting everything uploaded. To be honest, I think this part will be far more challenging than the actual clutch replacement itself.
I am quite "THE NOOB" when it comes to this, and I've also just started with my NEW computer complete with a completely new operating system that I'm desperately trying to learn.(Hell, sometimes I think my "smart phone" is smarter than I am) All I ask is that you please be patient while I try NOT to make a complete fool of myself.
So with all the LAME excuses out of the way,........I present to you the "subject" of this thread.

"The Dirty Gurl"

 

Ok, first things first. THE MOST IMPORTANT THING TO REMEMBER IS,............SAFETY FIRST! Nothing that you do with (or to) your Blazer is worth your life or limb(s). I believe that "we" are all adults here (or are at least under "adult supervision" for those who aren't of legal age) so in the interest of time and space I will spare the "safety briefing". I mean we all know (or we should) the common sense basics,....the right tools for the job, use of jack stands, etc.

Alright enough of the disclaimers, let's get down to business;
This is how I went about replacing the clutch in my 2001 S-10 Blazer.

The first thing is having a suitable area in which to work. Although I have a garage I chose to preform the clutch replacement in my driveway. (lots more room, better lighting, and much easier to clean up afterwards.) I started by degreasing and pressure washing the engine compartment and the entire underside of the vehicle. Although NOT required, it makes it so much nicer, easier, and in my opinion safer to work on.(and photograph as well)
Next I disconnected the NEG. battery cable from the battery. (If you have an alarm system or a possibly a stereo system with an anti-theft make sure you have the codes to restore them prior to disconnecting the battery.)
With the parking brake set wheel chocks in place and the transmission in gear I jacked the vehicle up and set the jack stands under the frame rails.

 

From there I moved to the interior and proceeded to remove "the console". It's actually quite easy, there are only 3 10mm nuts to remove. 1 up front under the (removable) rubber tray, and 2 more inside the "main compartment" under the (removable) plastic compartment "inserts". Once the 3 nuts are removed, carefully push the rubber "shifter boot" edges down inside the console, place the shifter in either 3 or 4th gear (4th worked best for me) and pull up and back on the console and it should come right out.

 

Now comes the time to remove the shifter "boot". Note: the boot is obviously installed to the floor pan (transmission tunnel) prior to the carpet installation at the factory. With this in mind you have to make a decision as to how you want to access the screws that retain the boot to the tunnel. One way is to reverse the order of how the factory originally did it.(remove the seats etc. and pull the carpet out) or as I (hated to) cut the carpet at the 4 corners of the opening (for the "boot"). For the time being cutting the carpet was (for me) a viable option simply because I have a console that will cover it (of course I've never "seen" a Blazer without one) and in the not too distant future I plan on replacing the carpet anyway. Cutting the carpet is far easier and faster as well, but the choice is yours.
After you've gained clearance (using one or the other methods above) remove the 10 7mm screws that secure the boot to the floor. Pull up on the boot until you have access to the base of the shifter. You don't "have to" pull the boot all the way off (over the shift ****) but the next step is easier if you do.
Next using a 21mm (or an adjustable wrench) loosen the "jam nut" at the bottom of the shifter "stick" and then unscrew the stick and set it aside.
At this point you should be done,........inside the vehicle.