tranny acts like its in neutral in all gears
#11
no the torque converter was first attached to the flex-plate then the trans. was installed to which i now know was extremely wrong to do.which is now why i believe after reading all of these responses (thank you all very much for your inputs) and the inquiring that i have done away from this forum that i believe i have damaged the front pump nubs that go into the torque converter.my next step is to unplug a trans. cooling line start the truck and see if i have any pressure at all if not then i shall remove trans. and examine the front pump and replace i'm sure (Ive called around 360.00 from dealer but i may have found a rebuilt for 200.00 not sure till i match it up since there are 2 types) but im convinced that ive broken the front pump due to incorrect installation of trans. and parts
#12
Ouch. Yeah so there is a good chance you FUBAR'd your pump. Hopefully that is the only damage.
#13
Double ouch.....That is the reason I asked....I installed my first tranny the same way....I thought it was like installing a manual trans..
So, I had to remove it and get another trans from the salvage yard...they were nice enough to replace it for a small fee.
Hope all goes well with the next install....one thing though. When installing the torque converter you will feel 2 clicks so to speak. The first will be the the converter splines engaging the splines on the trans input shaft and the second will be when the converter fully seats around the pump ears...you will have to rotate the converter back and forth to make sure it is fully seated.
So, I had to remove it and get another trans from the salvage yard...they were nice enough to replace it for a small fee.
Hope all goes well with the next install....one thing though. When installing the torque converter you will feel 2 clicks so to speak. The first will be the the converter splines engaging the splines on the trans input shaft and the second will be when the converter fully seats around the pump ears...you will have to rotate the converter back and forth to make sure it is fully seated.
#14
Don't leave out the fact that the converter should sit back about 1" from the face of the bellhousing. If not it may not be engauged with the pump completely. The thing I do is, if I can fit any fingers between the converter and the pump, it's not on completely. I suppose that method works unless you have gorilla paws.
#15
yes ouch is right and i have disconnected a trans. cooling line with vehicle running and a big NO PRESSURE lol so yes pump is toast i'm working on pulling the trans. now and hopefully the torque converter was a little more forgiving of my stupidity ( hoping anyway ) I would like to thank all of you for your time knowledge and kindness of not laughing too loudly at me (even though i fully expected it and can take it) but i appreciate all the feedback i have received and especially the tips and tricks for re installation as i have stated im not an AT guy or ever owned any Chevy's so any help all could give would be greatly appreciated. I do have a Haynes repair manual which i prefer to Chilton but i have noticed that Haynes does not give you the tips and tricks like Chilton does but Chilton pictures suck and the general layout of procedures can be a bit confusing as well sometimes. once again thank you all and any tips would be appreciated.also what do you think my chances of getting a working pump and torque converter from a wrecking yard are ?
#16
I would first survey the damage. Can you just replace the pump rotor, or did it bast out the pump casting? The pump internals can be purchased new for $10+shipping online. I don't know of any places that sell just the pump out of a transmission. Maybe a transmission shop has some cores laying around they use for donors.
#17
10 dollars plus shipping would be awesome do you happen to have a site name
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