Replaced TPS, trans has a tiny slight leak, bogs on take off, stalled 1x, 1 to Second gear not OD seems to help, have to be EXACT at 20mph and let off throttle to make it shift by itself.
used my jobs scan tool, Evap, Crank Posi sensor, also a Airflow issue vapor canister...
I am thinking (All gauges work though ) Downstream VSS, O2 and Sparkies.... air fuel and shift issues with RPMs Which is the 20mph sweet spot at Around 2400k eeek.
Just reaching here...but fix the obvious engine problems first before transmission.
My 95 S10 4.3 4L60 wont shift properly on propane fuel. Its lacking acceleration and the trans doesnt like to shift the same as in gasoline. Switch to gas, shifts fine.
Point is that the engine hesitation might be causing shift probkems.
Gotcha! We actually have some low grade FixFinder by Unnova, some other ones that Customers and us Employees use. So the Sparkies, Noticed the Dist cap tends to jump spark from what I hear?
Twas my intentions to find a donor vehicle what trans would work?? I have heard of people doing the NV3500? Is that the same out of a 4.3 1994 up Silverado/K1500?
Getting PCM/ en route diagnosis scan tested tomorrow.
not Going thru headlight swapping. gonna bondo the “chrome” and remove the gross tape and make a “custom“ ZIPTIE bracket to hold in the headlights better Lol.
Agreed with above statement. Get to the bottom of your engine codes. Fix those, that might end the stalling issue. If the engine isn't making the power that the computer is expecting it to be making, simply shifting gears which is putting more load on the engine may be all that it's taking to make it stall.
The PCM looks at a lot of parameters to determine when to shift gears in the trans. If the engine isn't acting the way the PCM thinks it should be because it's not running properly because of faulty sensors or other parts, then all sorts of random problems can arise in the "electronic confusion"...
Also, track down the leak... If it's just the output shaft seal (which is common) it's easily just a 30 minute fix that you shouldn't have to worry about any time again soon. I would STRONGLY discourage any one from using any sort of "stop leak" of any kind in any vehicle they plan to keep driving for another year or more... People like to argue that it's the "cheaper option". I call BS... It's the LAZY option, not the cheaper option... Some of these stop leak products cost nearly $20. Output shaft seal for a 4L60e in a 95 Blazer 2wd on RockAuto is less than $6...
Last edited by blazen_red_4x4; 08-20-2020 at 10:47 PM.