Hey everyone. I am going to attempt to change the transmission fluid myself for the first time when I reach 100k. It will be 15k since the last fluid flush and trans cooler install and 30k since the last flush/filter change. Since I will be doing this myself for the first time, I do have a few questions.

1. Is there a step by step writeup somewhere on how to do it on the 4L60E (specifically on the S-Series)? It it easy enough to do?

2. How hard is it to replace the filter? Is it easy to mess up?

3. Is there anything else I should be replacing as a precaution while I have the pan removed? What about shift solenoids or other electronic parts?

4. Are there any warning signs to look for while the pan is removed? The fluid is nice and light pink and the trans doesn't slip, but could there be an issue?

5. I had Lucas Trans Fix put in at the last fluid flush. Should I do it again? If so, how much if I am only replacing a portion of the fluid?

6. If I get a deep pan with a drain plug and a deep pan filter, will that fit the S-Series? What advantages are there?

Thanks for any advice.

 

1- I'm sure there is something available through google, but there really isn't one here yet.
2- Just pull it off. Feel the seal up inside the transmission to see if there are any cuts in the seal. If it feels smooth, I just leave it and push the new filter up into it after spreading some fresh fluid out over the upper tube.
3- You should put a drain plug in when you have the pan off. B&M makes a fairly nice one that just requires you to drill a hole in the pan. Use some loctite on the threads and allow it to setup properly before reassembling. Or get a deep pan from a fullsize truck which already has the drain plug.
4- Clutch material will collect on the magnet. Lots of junk on it isn't a good sign.
5- Probably wouldn't hurt.
6- More fluid won't hurt a thing. You need to get the proper filter for the deeper pan.

 

So the filter is that easy? Wow. I think I will do it myself and take photos every step of the way to show the mechanic down the road (where I usually go for repairs) just in case there is something questionable so it can be diagnosed quickly. I do not have a drill, so I will probably hold off on the drain plug for now. A deep pan is a bit out of my budget right now, so I will just focus on changing the fluid/filter since it is needed. This is also a part of a huge 100k mile maintenance project of mine (oil, trans, diffs, full tuneup, Posi-Lok (if I get one for Xmas), clean the air filter and replace leaking washer bottle). I will be doing trans fluid changes once a year anyway if I can do it myself because I don't want to end up with this truck being towed into a transmission shop. Will changing the fluid and filter often and having the trans cooler and Lucas in this truck prevent some 1998 4L60E problems that I have been told about like the 3-4 clutch or the sunshell or solenoid problems? Thanks for the advice. It helps.

Also, I know this is a bit off topic, but I am planning on renting a Uhaul 4x8 trailer for the first time next week to bring stuff home from my apartment (I am a college student and I live off campus). Probably around 2,000 pounds in the trailer and a full load of computer equipment in the truck. Just use 3 instead of overdrive, brake alot sooner and use extreme caution and common sense, right? My trans can handle it without going up in smoke or throwing parts through the case? Thanks.

 

I think I am going to take it to a shop to do this since I don't want to damage the aluminum around the filter seal. I do not have a drill and I do want the drain plug, so I am going to ask them to install it.

I found a Dorman drain plug Part number 65241 on Advance's website. Is there a specific place on the pan where it should be installed so it doesn't hit the internals of the trans?

Also, if I am just replacing 1/2 the fluid, should have them just put in 1/2 a bottle of Lucas to keep the concentration of the Lucas in the fluid equal to what it is now so there is not so much in there that it swells the seals to breaking point?

 

Is there some kind of plastic tool or something softer than aluminum that will remove that seal? I would like to do this myself, but I am just concerned about transmission damage.

 

Not so easy computernerd. I just did my 2000 Blazer LT and I had read some instructions that sounded easy until I started the job. Be careful no to strip any of the pan bolts. This can happen on the bolt to the rear of the pan as it's kind of tight. Use 1/4 drive small ratchet/socket 13 mm and make sure that you have a straight shot at then and not in an angle especially when you are putting them on. The shift linkage bracket is bolted to the pan and you have to remove the to 10mm bolts. Unscrew the 15mm nut on the end of shift cable on tranny (don't disconnect the cable from the bracket as you may break the plastic clip, better to remove the bolt). On the instructions I had read there was not mention that the exhaust "Y"pipe would be in the way. I able to squeeze and force the pan on and off by removing the three bolt from the Manifold (driver side) to "Y" pipe. It would have been better had I loosened (not removed the other side too but, by that time I had tranny fluid all over that area. The manifold/ "Y" pipe bolts are a pain to get to and you can strip them too. Use WD40 and make sure you have a straight shot/angle at them too. Use long extensions 3/8 drive and 14mm simi/deep 6 point socket (12 points sockets will strip bolts if too tight). Remove the pan bolts after you have done the exhaust and made sure that you have room to drop the pan. I wish someone had told me this before. I had to do the job on the ground. Let me give you a great tip. When ever you are going to deal with bolts that are rusted and tight: 1) Use WD40 or the like (2) ALWAYS start by tightening (Not too much) the bolts that you want to loosen (3) Go Back and Forth; tighten, loosen, tighten, loosen. Good luck

 

I am making an appointment to have the trans and rear diff (+ replace diff cover and install drain plug on trans. Is there a way to install one on the rear diff cover?) done at the same time. I am not having the trans flushed because I don't want a destroyed trans. I am not going to risk damage from my inexperience and causing a couple grand repair bill. Especially with the rear diff with the brake lines. I am going to have a local transmission shop do this. NOT Aamco. I am not going to have them cause damage and then steal thousands from us like alot of people have had happen to them (check any consumer complaint website). I am still going to do the engine oil (this will be my 5th DIY oil change), front diff (just pump it out and refill?) and transfer case (Drain and refill?) myself. Thanks anyway for the advice.

 

I just got my trans rebuilt. I asked about the Lucas trans fix that I put in when my blazer wouldn't go into reverse when it was cold & it fixed it (for that winter). The trans mechanic said that it does work & it works well IF you want to get a vehicle off the lot fast (no trans issues). It does wear down/make softer/more suptle the seals in the trans. On a longevity sense that's not good, but to get another year or so out of it before you get it rebuilt - go for it! If there aren't any issues with the trans, why bother - if it aint broke why fix it!?

<edit> mine had a worn seal on the reverse, AKA not quite all in place & the Lucas was after I had the trans back flushed (2/3 of the tranny fluid is held in the torque converter) some say don't flush it because you'll toss metal BACK into the trans & some say go for it, because it gets rid off all the old fluid

 

Oh crap. I had that stuff put in after the trans was flushed 14k ago. There was nothing wrong, but I wanted to prevent future problems. Did I make a huge mistake? Should I do it again or should I try to find the Lucas Trans Conditioner or Lubegard? Am I looking at a new transmission if I proceed with changing the fluid without it? Could Lucas have caused damage to the seals already over 14k miles or has it not been in there long enough to cause damage? Does it really swell seals or does it just raise the viscosity of the fluid to make leaks much slower? I just emailed Lucas asking the same question about swelling seals. If yes, I am going to stop using it if it destroys seals.

 

Lucas should change their advertising then:
Q: How should I use Lucas Transmission Fix? A: We recommend adding a bottle of Lucas Transmission Fix each time you change your transmission fluid (approximately every 30-40,000 miles), or adding a bottle to your current fluid to fix a small leak.