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Transmission oil filler tube replacement

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  #11  
Old 03-15-2013, 09:30 AM
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Sheesh its that tough just to put the tube in?I didnt put mine in cause my old had bent so bad that it had a kink in it.I just found one the other day that i could replace it with.So if Im reading this correctly you cant just lower the tube from the topside and slide it in the hole on the trans with out lowering?Please tell me this isnt so.
 
  #12  
Old 03-16-2013, 10:18 PM
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However you do it, it is NOT an easy job. I know an A1 dealership mechanic (since the 80s) and he raises the body to replace them (he's done several).

I went over the top of the engine. The $100 job is not replacing the tube, it's removing the bolt that bolts the tube in place to the engine. I forgot what size wrench to use, but if you have long skinny arms, it's possible to reach over the top with a long combo wrench like I did. Don't forget to buy a new tube rubber grommet and trans filter, and just plan on changing the trans fluid (otherwise if you don't have rust in the tube and dipstick, why change the tube and stick right?).

Better yet, since they all need a intake job, just do it when you do (or have done) the intake. The bolt is real easy to get to when you take care of the intake (and they ALL need the intake done).
 
  #13  
Old 03-17-2013, 10:19 AM
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This not what I want to hear!I have been through so much hard work on my Jimmy over the last 2 years and havent even got to drive it.Long skinny arms Ha Ha .Anything but.I guess Im going to have to borrow one of the neighborhood kids to do this for me.Sounds like I have more hell to pay on this project!
 
  #14  
Old 03-19-2013, 12:05 AM
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It's a 5/16" bolt that uses a 9/16" wrench. I don't retain the dipstick in place when I do any RWD transmissions because they are such a PITA to get back in... not to mention get the tab to line up with the bell housing hole. It is possible to put one in from the top(under the hood)with the transmission installed but it requires a hammer, patience, twisting/turning, and a piece of semi-hard material such as brass/aluminum/plastic over the end of the tube. I wouldn't suggest it and be very careful not to damage the end of the tube.
 
  #15  
Old 03-19-2013, 09:49 AM
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At this point Im about ready to part mine out,sell it,or trade for better bike if I can.Im tired of fighting with this thing.Nothing is ever simple and everything that should be a minor job ends up being such a major PIA its not worth it for me to expend the energy or effort on.
 
  #16  
Old 04-23-2013, 09:46 AM
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IF my drive shaft is not hooked up and I undid the trans mount and motormount bolts can I raise the trans from underneith so that I can install my dipstick?Will this give me the clearance I need?Does anyone have any pics of how the dipstick comes up into the engine compartment?
Also if I do the oppisite and lower my trans I should be able to hook the lines up also correct?

Thanks
 

Last edited by 1sttimejimmyowner; 04-23-2013 at 09:54 AM.
  #17  
Old 04-24-2013, 06:25 PM
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Common guys help me out please
 
  #18  
Old 06-09-2013, 03:33 PM
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Back to try and get soe work done on this beast.Just wondering if theres another way if getting this dam tube in.Since all have of my exhaust hooked up is the Y pipe if I removed it can the tube be installed with have to raise the trasmission?
 
  #19  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:22 PM
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I dont believe the exhaust is th problem.its the gap between the firewall and trans bell housing. With the rear drive shaft removed
And the crossmember removed the rear of the trans should drop enough to install the tube.but keep an eye on the distributor dont let it hit the firewall and crack let us know how it goes
 
  #20  
Old 06-10-2013, 04:31 PM
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So what did was cut the dipstick tube and removed about 4" of it... I kept the top with the mounting tab and bolted that in place and I kept the bottom that went into the trans. That way there is no change in length of the tube, then connected both ends with a piece of hose and a couple of clamps.its been 2years and not had any problems with it
 


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