Transmission removal question (what tools did you use?)
#1
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4

Hi everyone. New to this forum and I have a few questions. My sister has a 98 4x4 4.3l blazer and her automatic transmission just went out. Being the brother that I am I said, "I'll do this for you to save money." So I got a low mileage tranny from a pick-n-pull type place for $400 and I am in the process of swapping it.
I have a few questions.
I have removed-
Front and rear axles
transfer case
throttle cable
fluid
crossmember
starter
torque converter bolts
My first question
Do I need to remove the Y pipe?
Second question
What socket extensions etc. did you use to remove the Trans-to-engine bolts?
The clearance is super tight and I feel like there is no way that I can get them out. I have done several transmission removal/installs on different vehicles and this is the first one that has left me feeling helpless.
Third Question
The manual said to mark the torque converter and flex plate to "maintain balance". What am I supposed to do since the transmission and torque converter are from another blazer?
Its the last day of 2010 so I don't expect anyone to respond tonight since you're probably already on your 3rd beer, but any help would be awesome!
I have a few questions.
I have removed-
Front and rear axles
transfer case
throttle cable
fluid
crossmember
starter
torque converter bolts
My first question
Do I need to remove the Y pipe?
Second question
What socket extensions etc. did you use to remove the Trans-to-engine bolts?
The clearance is super tight and I feel like there is no way that I can get them out. I have done several transmission removal/installs on different vehicles and this is the first one that has left me feeling helpless.
Third Question
The manual said to mark the torque converter and flex plate to "maintain balance". What am I supposed to do since the transmission and torque converter are from another blazer?
Its the last day of 2010 so I don't expect anyone to respond tonight since you're probably already on your 3rd beer, but any help would be awesome!
#3
Beginning Member
Join Date: Nov 2010
Posts: 14

i just changed the tranny on my 98 2wd and i dropped the y pipe it was hard to get to the top bell housing bolts but i used an 18 inch wobbler extension and i jacked up on the front of the motor to give me a better angle on them i dont know if thats any help or not
#4
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 752

Since you have the transfer case out already, how are you supporting the transmission from tipping down? If you are using a jack, you are on the right track.
First you need to get that Y-pipe out of there. At least I'm pretty sure you do. I had my trans out 3 times in a month and although I didn't try it with the Y-pipe in there, I know there was a reason I took it out.
After you have everything disconnected; wires, vacuum, braces, cooler lines(1/2" wrench), etc. You can tip the tail end of the transmission down as far as you want until the distributor is almost touching the firewall. Be careful because the cap will break very quick.
When you get it tipped down you should be able to see up above the trans and almost reach all the bolts with your hand. Roughly 24" of extensions works the best with a universal on the end. It should be a 9/16" or 15mm socket. I think either one fits, but see which one works best for you. At that point you should know what to do if you've dropped a trans before.
First you need to get that Y-pipe out of there. At least I'm pretty sure you do. I had my trans out 3 times in a month and although I didn't try it with the Y-pipe in there, I know there was a reason I took it out.
After you have everything disconnected; wires, vacuum, braces, cooler lines(1/2" wrench), etc. You can tip the tail end of the transmission down as far as you want until the distributor is almost touching the firewall. Be careful because the cap will break very quick.
When you get it tipped down you should be able to see up above the trans and almost reach all the bolts with your hand. Roughly 24" of extensions works the best with a universal on the end. It should be a 9/16" or 15mm socket. I think either one fits, but see which one works best for you. At that point you should know what to do if you've dropped a trans before.
#5
New Member
Join Date: Jan 2011
Posts: 7

i believe you definetly have to remove y pipe. by no means should you just cut it that is like a 300 dollar pipe brand new
#6
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4

Thanks guys. I went to Harbor Freight and purchased their "long extension" set and that did the trick.
As far as the Y-pipe. I removed the six nuts from the top of the y pipe and then I tried to do the bottom 3 by the cat, but they are really rusted in there so I have them soaking.
I can't figure out how to remove that big round vertical plug on the passenger side of the transmission. I am sure that it will become clear when I get the exhaust out of the way, I just didn't want to break it or anything. Do I use a flat head screwdriver?
As far as the Y-pipe. I removed the six nuts from the top of the y pipe and then I tried to do the bottom 3 by the cat, but they are really rusted in there so I have them soaking.
I can't figure out how to remove that big round vertical plug on the passenger side of the transmission. I am sure that it will become clear when I get the exhaust out of the way, I just didn't want to break it or anything. Do I use a flat head screwdriver?
#7
Senior Member
Join Date: Apr 2010
Location: Nebraska
Posts: 752

No.
If you feel around it there should be two bumps on the sides. One bump towards the front of the vehicle and one towards the rear. Squeeze those in and just gently rock and lift. Should pull right off.
If you feel around it there should be two bumps on the sides. One bump towards the front of the vehicle and one towards the rear. Squeeze those in and just gently rock and lift. Should pull right off.
#8
Beginning Member
Join Date: Oct 2010
Posts: 12

I have removed my tranny without the y pipe being removed its a tight fit but if you got a person on the jack and one shoving to line it up it will go on as easy as pie. I just made sure the two tabs on the back of the engine lined up first and then put one bolt in at a time and you should have to problem.
#9
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: mass
Posts: 607

you can cut the three by the cat i think and then just nut and bolt it back together
#10
New Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2010
Posts: 4

This is pretty much what I had to do. I decided to remove the pipe simply because I didn't want to be squeezing around it. 2 of the bolts by the cat were beyond stuck so I ended up cutting them and just using bolts/nuts when I put it back together.
Thanks everyone for your help. I do have to say though, it was a nightmare of a job.





