That sux.. more than my whole Bravada cost me.

But here's the thing.. what about the trans issue that cost you the engine in the first place?

 

Ouch 4400.00. Sure u cant find anything cheaper then that with a 3 year warranty?

 

I just had my 96 quit pumping oil at 70. Luckily my nephew runs a reconditioning shop. Got a motor from him cheaper than dirt. It so happened it is a marine 4.3 but fits just fine. We haven't finished with it yet, but everything bolts right up perfectly. If you want to keep driving yours without having to do it over put in a new one. My 96 hasn't got a scratch or dent or rust spot anywhere and the interior is good enough for me so I decided to fix it up. I really like my Blazer, if something else happens to it though my son said he is never doing another motor swap on it. We've spent 2 full days so far putting everything together. He did his Jeep Cherokee in half a day. Blazers just aren't made to change motors in. One major hint -- lower the transmission and beat back the roll crimp (we used an air hammer with a long tip) on the firewall above the bell housing to get the top transmission bolts out and put them back in. That alone will save 2 hours. Don't forget to put a shoehorn in your toolbox to get the new one back in the hole. Good luck. By the way, Advance Auto sells some pretty decent reman engines - one for mine would have been $1600 exchange. If you don't know how to do it though, have a pro do it.

 

Solenoid is not fully engaging 3 when it downshifts from D. Only happens when truck is 75-80mph. Last time it did this was several months back and I got it off cruise before it hit 4k rpm. This time it red lined then it did it again at 65 then a loud thud(crank gave I guess going from 5k to a sudden 2600). He is going to fully look over the transmission while the engine out and everything....maybe even pressure wash it down. Clean engine dirty engine bay do not mix....haha. Either way once I get the CC paid off then I will be visiting them again and getting a new transmission installed. I am keeping this truck..wanted one since I was 16....perfect size for my family and is fun to drive so I will slowly rebuild her. I know I can get 300k on the body now. Good news is this reman engine I know what goes in it from day 1 at 0 miles and the main parts have already been broken in and tested, etc.

Breakdown of everything being replaced:
Engine that comes with new EVERYTHING down to the plugs, wires, cap, belt, etc.
Motor mounts
Heater Core

Labor alone is around 1600, but well worth it with my mechanic he has given me a good bit of freebies. And knowing how hard those motors are I am not going to whine about 1600 labor for a engine and heater core. One less headache for me as I am working 84 hrs/wk. 44 of those at OT rate.

 

What failed on the engine?
What concerns me is that in your pictures, the oil is at the FRONT of the engine compartment! Ive scattered a few motors myself and I honestly cant remember there being oil dripping from the stab bar.
I would hate to see your motor condemed by a blown oil filter gasket.
When the truck dropped out of gear you said it redlined. Did the rev-limiter kick in? I can sit in my driveway and mash the pedel down and let the rev limiter protect the motor. (I do not recommend this!)

Please explain bleeding lifters. Ive never heard that term before.

I guess what I am saying here is that youre looking to spend a mess of money. I just hope its money well spent!

 

The block is cracked in several places...what I am curious is how the HECK it cracked like that to cause oil to go...stopped up oil port or what? I do not know and will ask my mechanic to strip motor down if he wants. He is curious as well because he could not pin point a fix to it. Example head gasket fix problem...new block, etc. The motor was just FUBARed. It had a slow leaking front seal, I kept oil changed and it only burned 1/2 qt between the 3k oil changes.

The lifter problem is I would crank it up it'd have 20psi pressure when it normally had 40psi. Turn it off and turn it back on after only a minute of sitting and the top it would rattle like they had been dry for years. It just was not holding adequate oil pressure. This happened after I was forced to run it above 240* for a half mile to get the truck to safety. Just I knew what had happened to the motor the past few months so did not feel like constantly putting repairs on it when in the long run a new motor with warranty would been cheaper.

Now after this it is getting that transmission fixed! As the problem only happens at highway speeds...truck will not see above 65 or hard throttle or towing.

Also our oil filter is located in that little crevice behind the oil pan....if it blew and me traveling at 75mph it should not even hit the stab bar so it had to of leaked from the front of the truck. I am thinking something snapped along the crankshaft probably causing it to rip out the front seal and then just tear things up. But it hit rev limiter the almost immediately a thud(shook the truck) and was at 2800rpm. This happened within 1 or 2 secs and you guys know that can be harsh on an engine.

It is hard to explain what happened you would of just had to be in the truck...it woke up my youngest son from his nap.

In the end....it is money well spent as what I want done is getting done.

 

Well, there you go with a big clue if you ask me. Have the mech pull oil galley plugs and see if there's any carbon in there.
I'm gonna insert my 'Mobil 1' refrain here.. if you insist on an oil change place carry in your own jug of Mobil1 and an AC Delco filter and insist on watching them put it in. Friend of mine caught some punks try to switch on him.

 

I do my own oil changes. Unless the warranty states a shop HAS to do it. Most of the time receipts work fine for warranty. I just ordered me poly motor & tranny mounts to.

Hopefully they do...GM honored my warranty like that. I walked in with my log book and the service rep was like wow wish more people did this kind of records.

 

Engine is in everything is being finished up. Pressure test then double check the heater core. Which I already know its bad...so its either going to be late evening tomorrow or Monday when she'll be back in my hands.

 

sweeeet. Glad to see you getting it back on the road.