Purchased an '01 4-door, 4-wheel drive Trail Blazer trim with 169k miles on it through an online auction. When I drove it home, engine had a dead miss and as I drove, the miss got worse and all kind of lights came on on the dashboard and oil pressure gauge bottomed out. Pulled over and had it towed home. Did compression check first. Showed from 180-190 PSI (which seems high). Pulled codes: P0303, P0300 and an injection code. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor. While doing that, noticed distributor timing was set one tooth advanced. Reset distributor timing to correct parameters (checked 3 times). Engine is now hard to start, backfires, runs poorly at low RPMs, spits and dies, much like an old ignition system that is 180° out of time. Friend suggested change distributor. Did so and was very careful to get timing correct. Same results as before. Don't know where to go next. Should I set timing back to one tooth off to see if that helps? And if that does the trick, what does that mean? Everything I've read says timing is very precise on this vehicle and is not adjustable. Please help.
Wytepirate

 

First, double-check the simple stuff. Are all the plug wires in the right places? You didn't mix up #1 and #3, like so many people do?

Then, find a decent scanner (or a phone app) that will check cam retard (or sync, or whatever you want to call it). That will tell you if the distributor is installed correctly.

 

Another thing to check, partly because it is easy, but also because it is a common problem, is the fuel pressure.

But I'd follow the suggestions above first.

 

Here's the latest. I slotted out the bolt hole in the old distributor clamp. Had my wife start the truck, while I turned the distributor. A little counter clockwise, and it started and ran. Didn't let it run long because I didn't want to let go of the loose distributor. So I guess that proves that I have to get a scanner and set the cam retard. What I don't understand is if it won't dial in at the preset slot, doesn't that indicate a problem somewhere? And where could it be?

 

If you can't get the can retard close how it is, it's probably a tooth off.

 

By how much did you need to turn it?

If you are off by a tooth, it would be about 28 degrees (360 degrees/13 teeth per gear).

I don't know by how much the crank and cam retard can be adjusted. If you find out, be sure to let us know.

 

I tried to keep track of how much I turned it, but I lost track. I don't think it was much because it started right away. My guess would be less than 28°. Now I got to figure out which scanner to get.

 

About your request in another thread - there isn't really any need for me to butt in. Looks like Tom A and Christine_208 are already giving you good advice.

I will make a suggestion on a scan tool for your 2001. Car Diagnostic Pro $8.95 or Dash Command $10 - either one coupled with the BAFX Bluetooth adapter from Amazon ($25) will do fine reading cam sensor retard. Car Diagnostic Pro reads/clears codes on other systems like ABS, HVAC, SIR, etc and generally does more - but you have to wade through a lot of unfiltered PIDs that will not work with a Blazer (also Enhanced PIDs in Car Diagnostic Pro do not work at all on 1996/1997 Blazers). Dash Command has Enhanced Powertrain PIDs for each year and make of vehicle which you must buy in addition to the program for additional $10 - this makes the PIDs much more filtered and it does work for all years of Blazers. Car Diagnostic Pro is Android Only. Dash Command is for Android or iPhone. If you want a hand-held wired scanner that does a lot of bidirectional functions like crank sensor relearn, I recommend the Vident I-link 400 ($150).

 

Any ideas other than heli-coil for repairing stripped out starter bolt? It's painfully obvious that someone who knows less than I do has tinkered with this truck.

 

Helicoil or bore and thread for a threaded insert like for a head bolt thread repair if there is enough meat.


George