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94 blazer fullsize milky engine oil, engine rebuild or swap

  #1  
Old 01-14-2010, 01:32 AM
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Default 94 blazer fullsize milky engine oil, engine rebuild or swap

...hi everyone i have a fullsize 94 blazer with 220k and in the summer my truck was overheating so i changed everything but the radiator and and took thermostat completely out and also pulled the spring out of the fan clutch and it stopped overheating, now the its the winter and i put a 180 degree thermostat in but now the gauge doesnt go no higher then about 120 at all. i also have a oil leak but i had it since i bought it, but today my oil gauge was acting funny so i check my oil and i saw some milky stuff on the stick i looked in my reserve coolant tank and it was empty, question #1 do you think the antifreeze is mixing with the oil or is it because the engine never reaches the right temperature to burn the water out the engine because of the short trips i take? and question #2 is would it be cheaper to buy another engine or rebiuld this one and up to what year trucks can i use (yukon, tahoe, suburban) would i be able to just drop them in or would i have to do more like use the brain from that engine also? im sorry for all the question but i really need to know i am in school trying to be a electrician and need my vehicle to get back and forth atleast until march when i graduate
 
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  #2  
Old 01-14-2010, 09:06 PM
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well to question #1 your oil is milky because wterr is going into your oil which is because your either your head gasket is blown or the head is cracked or the blocked is cracked this one i see very rare.as for question #2 it depends can u do the work your self or do u need to pay someone, or can u do it your self. If u can do it your self it's cheaper if not not. As far as the last question i'm not sure of the years & models that the brains are interchanble maybe someone else can help. good luck
 
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Old 01-14-2010, 11:09 PM
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Drop a crate GMPP Vortec 383 in you will not disappointed and the 30000 mile warranty isn't bad ether.
 
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Old 01-18-2010, 11:10 AM
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Your cheapest bet would probably be to take the head off and check if it is cracked. It is probably just the head gasket, so you can probably fix it yourself. As far as your school is going, are you IBEW. Good luck with your classes. Stick with it
 
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Old 01-18-2010, 08:07 PM
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four core radiator, new long block or rem that will fix the oil leak, thermostat job is to keep the block at the right temp, the fan move the air across the radiator, also check to see if you got the right water pump it's reverse flow, could have failed to cause same thing
 
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Old 01-19-2010, 08:33 PM
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i just want to say thanks for all of your help. heres a update i changed my oil today and it was just black so what does this mean? and about how muck would the crate GMPP Vortec 383 motor cost?
 
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Old 01-21-2010, 07:41 PM
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A bolt in replacement 383 is about $2,000-$5,000. If you build one cut it in half.
 
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Old 01-21-2010, 08:10 PM
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Will it work with the stock trans and rear?
 
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Old 01-22-2010, 07:07 PM
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Yeah a 383 is a mild bore (.0030) and a 400 crank in a 350 block, so "bolt in". The combo increases displacement from 350ci to 383ci. GMPP "UNDER" rates there 383's when set up properly at 425hp. If you where to pick up a super charger system... you can see where I'm going. Having said that Pre 96 C/K trucks are notorious for eating up rear ends, I would recamend picking up a low mile 99 suburban rear at your local yard. But your trans sould be good to go but a stall converter is recamended for drivability.
 

Last edited by BigBadHoe; 01-22-2010 at 07:15 PM.
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