complete wiring harness
#1
complete wiring harness
I was wondering if anyone ever installed a painless or simular complete wiring harness. I want to change mine to a style that would put the fuze panel on the inner fender like todays trucks. I am rebiulding a 1979 blazer 2wd. thanks
#2
Newer vehicles have fuse panels both in the engine compartment and in the passenger compartment.
I don't think you really want to move the whole fuse block away fro where it is. The reason is you will be adding distance from the block to the accessories. Not a big deal but the block is powered at 12V and as you increase the wire length you will experience loss.
Secondly the engine compartment is not a friendly place for electrical items like ATC fuses blocks. The fuse block in the engine compartment is mainly for high amp relays and power components related to modern engines, not for anything inside the passenger compartment.
I don't think you really want to move the whole fuse block away fro where it is. The reason is you will be adding distance from the block to the accessories. Not a big deal but the block is powered at 12V and as you increase the wire length you will experience loss.
Secondly the engine compartment is not a friendly place for electrical items like ATC fuses blocks. The fuse block in the engine compartment is mainly for high amp relays and power components related to modern engines, not for anything inside the passenger compartment.
#3
I disagree WITH a caveat.
If there's one thing that frustrates GM owners over the years, it's the quality of the wiring. Only times my brothers asked me to help them with their chevy's it's wiring problems that come and go at will.
- One even sold his 2005 over a problem with door circuits. Which didnt surprise me much because I'd had similar problems way back in the late eighties with a 79 Regal. I ended up fixing every single window and door lock wire termination and half the engine wire harness esp the HEI wiring
And the bottom line is whether or not the aftermarket harnesses are an improvement on the original. Painless has a pretty good reputation.
Make sure the harness does everything you need it to do and has a quality look and feel about it. Amazing how much you can tell just by that.
But as to moving it.. I dont see any good reason to do that unless it is boxed/covered same as the later model underhood blocks
Is this the one you are looking at?
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=10205
If so, looks good to me. I dont mean the price but if it makes your life easier to not chase down badly made or butchered connections, it's well worth it.
If there's one thing that frustrates GM owners over the years, it's the quality of the wiring. Only times my brothers asked me to help them with their chevy's it's wiring problems that come and go at will.
- One even sold his 2005 over a problem with door circuits. Which didnt surprise me much because I'd had similar problems way back in the late eighties with a 79 Regal. I ended up fixing every single window and door lock wire termination and half the engine wire harness esp the HEI wiring
And the bottom line is whether or not the aftermarket harnesses are an improvement on the original. Painless has a pretty good reputation.
Make sure the harness does everything you need it to do and has a quality look and feel about it. Amazing how much you can tell just by that.
But as to moving it.. I dont see any good reason to do that unless it is boxed/covered same as the later model underhood blocks
Is this the one you are looking at?
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchField=10205
If so, looks good to me. I dont mean the price but if it makes your life easier to not chase down badly made or butchered connections, it's well worth it.
Last edited by pettyfog; 02-08-2012 at 02:29 PM.
#6
We bought a wiring harness that we thought was going to work for our 85 K5 Silverado Blazer from LMC, a company I really like. Since we had the Silverado with power locks and windows, we got the 20 circuit one. Unfortunately, that one (which when it arrived, was an American Autowire harness), is actually a generic Universal wiring harness, so not specific for a K5, and we were frustrated for months. r bust for not reading the description when we went from 13 circuit to a 20 circuit one. Anyway, after many months of my son calling and emailing AA, and getting the "that isn't included", or "you have to use the old wiring connection/plug" or "you have to splice that in", we decided to buy the Painless one specifically for the K5 (73-87 C./K series, PN 20205) 27 circuit classic plus wiring harness. Much easier! Many of the connections were already made, and while not completely painless, was much less so.
We are now just troubleshooting how we got the front driver's side signal wired wrong (marker light works), and why we get no crank or ignition. I thought it might be because my son didn't wire in the Neutral Safety Switch, but once he did that, we still got no crank/start. We have found some loose connections, so it is probably something we did wrong. Now just re-checking the starter connections, etc.
Any suggestions would. be appreciated.
Vane.
We are now just troubleshooting how we got the front driver's side signal wired wrong (marker light works), and why we get no crank or ignition. I thought it might be because my son didn't wire in the Neutral Safety Switch, but once he did that, we still got no crank/start. We have found some loose connections, so it is probably something we did wrong. Now just re-checking the starter connections, etc.
Any suggestions would. be appreciated.
Vane.
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