I have asked this question on another forum and got a lot of help but no results yet. I thought I would share my experience here just in case.
So after almost 6 years I am back to getting this truck running. I had put about 10 quarts of oil in the engine to try to prevent drying out issues.

I have thrown a lot of cash at the problem and while it has not fixed the problem I figure since I have replaced the entire body except for the hood and cab roof/pillars putting all these new parts will not hurt the life of the truck.

(As a side note: ALL the aftermarket body parts I have bought from LMC and a other sites DO NOT FIT perfectly. I believe this is because they are made to fit a range of years and not just your year. be prepared to make them fit)

Since I began working on the engine again I have done the following:

1. Drain old oil and replace with proper amount of oil and new filter.
2. replace spark plugs and wires.
3. replace Ignition control module.
4. replace Fuel pump assembly
5. replace fuel filter
6. replace fuel pump relay
7. replace battery
8. replace Starter
9. replace Oil Pressure switch
10. replace ECM
11. replace Ignition Switch

Still no start after all that. Disregarding all advise because I NEEDED TO KNOW, I connected 12v directly to the in connection at the fuel pump. Engine started... plenty of fuel coming out of both injectors (although big drops not a fine spray). But it stayed running until I remove the power to the pump.

Items 1 to 7 following all RESULTED IN A NO START:

1. Tested voltage at relay. With key on I have 12v at power IN connection i.e. "A".

2. When turning the key I have 12v for about 2 sec at the output side of the relay. "E"

3. I tested the other end of "E" at the fuel pump assembly and have 12v for 2 sec.

To me the means that the existing wire is OK!

4. With helper turning key and holding the relay in hand can feel the click and 2 sec later another click.

5. Connected 12v to red wire at relay. I have 12v at the fuel pump assembly.

6. Connected new 14 gauge wire (temporary splice) from "E" to the fuel pump assembly. I have 12v at the fuel pump assembly.

7. I have tested the ground from fuel pump assembly to frame using continuity. Result is .000 on the meter.


Following resulted in fuel flow and start.

a. Connected power from battery to fuel pump assembly.

Eagle Mark on the other site informed me of the following, his statements are light, my response is bold:


1. On B2 there should be a 2 second on with key on even if you don't go to crank, as soon as you turn to crank it should again have power.

I have power at B2 when turning on key that lasts for 2 seconds. On cranking I have power again.

2. Then if there is a crank signal to C9 when key is cranked the fuel pump trigger at A1 turns relay back on and looks for the signal again at B2.

I have a light when cranking to C9

3. Do you have power at Orange wire B1 and C16 Batt Power? Key off, key on, key Crank? Should be hot always.

Yes I have power to B1 and C16 under all 3 conditions.

4. Do you have power at Pink wire A6 Ignition, should be hot key on and key crank? Should be hot key on and key crank.

I have power at A6 both conditions.

Using Bypass wire on relay I have power at purple wire at fuel pump assembly. I then attached the test light to positive power and tested the ground wire at the fuel pump relay and at the bolt where the ground meets the frame. Test light lights up.

Again put 12 volt from battery to fuel pump. This is a brand new fuel pump. No WHIRRING. Could I have burned out the fuel pump with all this testing ?

After all this and many many days I still don't know what the problem it. I just ordered a Actron/GM TBI fuel pressure tester and GM TBI adapter. I don't know why??? Since the fuel pump is not running I won't have any pressure to test.

Anyone seen this type of issue before ? Any ideas.

 

if you're getting power to the pump and the ground to the pump is also good then it sounds like the pump could be bad.

 

I'll admit that I fell asleep about half way through... Pictures help when going through such a technical description.

Question, why did you put 10 quarts in the engine and what did you think you were going to prevent from drying out?

On to the fuel pump question, the first time you hit the key the relay does run for 2 seconds, this is to prime the pump.

If you don't hear the pump kick on during this two seconds you're pump is DOA.

 

What kind of pictures. None of me I hope cause I am just an old fat guy.

I was told a long time ago that an overload of oil in an engine that will not be running is a good thing.

I dont know if it works but for a few bucks I felt it was worth it.

however, when this engine did start up when I put power directly to the fuel pump it did not sound bad, no pings or grinding noises. and I also turned the crankshaft by hand a bunch of times before I started it.

All just in case.

had to work on the family pool today. Will get back to this tomorrow. first thing I am going to do is pull the new pump and check for voltage on the pump itself. Wouldn't it be a pisser if it was just a bad wire on this new'ish fuel assembly.

thanks for the input.

 

OMFG... All along I was using the purple wire to the fuel pump assembly. It was the gray.

We took the pump out. Immersed it into marvel mystery oil, applied 12v and it ran fine.

Tested all the wires from both sides of the fuel assembly and found that the purple is for the gauge and the grey was for the pump.

Ran a wire from the exit on the relay to the grey wire going to the pump and bang zoom she started right up.

Please feel free to diss me for my stupidity in buying all those parts that I did not actually need.

Oh well, you live and you learn.

Thanks for all your help, advise and other comments.