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1998 Blazer power window conversion?

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Old 05-17-2010, 06:43 PM
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Default 1998 Blazer power window conversion?

I have a 98 Blazer with crank windows. I picked up a 99 Blazer LT with power windows. I can hook up the wiring but how hard is it to replace the power unit on the door for the old crank unit? Thanks
 
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Old 05-17-2010, 08:18 PM
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The regulators are different. You probably would be much better off swapping the entire regulator along with the door panel.
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 02:33 AM
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I agree. You should swap the entire thing. Di you have all the wiring? These things work a liyyle different than most folks think. For instance what is a power wire when you push the switch to go down turns into a ground wire when you roll the window up,
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:16 AM
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Hi, yes I have all the wiring, that's why I picked up the parts truck to replaced a butchered wiring job done behind the dash. I saw the power windows and wondered if it could be done. How hard is it to replace the regulators? Are you talking everything that will come out of the door panel that fits into the window track or just the crank part. I didn't want to start to disassemble without some advice. Thanks.
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 06:24 AM
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You will have to remove the entire regulator and remove it from the door.
 
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Old 05-18-2010, 11:51 AM
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Yeah, get rid of everything on your old one. It'll be replaced with the new. And for safety DO NOT TAKE THE NOTOR OFF THE REGULATOR WITHOUT DRILLING A HOLE AND PUTTING A BOLT (3/16 MINIMUM) THROUGH THE REGULATOR ARM AND THE FRAME SOMEHOW. A TRIP TO THE E/R IS IN YOUR FUTURE IF YOU DO. They have a spring that's under a lot of tension and it will bite you hard.
 
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Old 05-19-2010, 08:10 PM
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Thanks for the spring warning, I see it. My prep work gives me the impression it will be harder than I first thought.
 
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Old 05-22-2010, 04:34 PM
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Actually it's pretty easy to change the motor. I've never converted one from manual to electric windows. When you put the unit in I like to use 1/4" bolts 1/2" long with nylon lock nuts. Ace hardware sells them pretty cheap. Every one I've changed has them in it. I put the bolt head on the inside with the nut outside. There's plenty of clearance.
 
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Old 07-08-2010, 08:25 PM
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Default Gimpy and all thanks, it's done.

It was a lot harder than I thought it would be. I ran all the new door parts wiring through the door jambs. I had to hot wire the switch as there was no plug and play with my stock wiring. I put in a 6 fuse box from Autozone and protected the circuit with a 30 amp circuit breaker. Another poster told how to replace the regulators by unbolting the window track, after fighting the first one the other three were OK. New power window door panels went on and it looks and runs great. My only concern is I powered my fuse box off the battery instead of the ignition. I hope there will not be any trickle voltage with these units to draw on the battery. While I had the parts wiring and new fuse box, I installed power seats off of an empty spot.
 
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