Advice needed...good or bad deal here
#1
Advice needed...good or bad deal here
Hey yall...Im looking to buy me a K5, came across this ad on cl...Trucks been for sale awhile...started out at like $5800 back in late March/early April...price dropped to $3800 now...
K5 Blazer, GMC, 1984, 9'' Lift, 36" Swampers, Fuel Injected
I did receive an email when I asked about miles on motor/trans/transfer case and this is what I got back:
Trans is original, should be 140,XXX, Motor is 1992 and I have no idea how many miles on it, T-Case is used and have no idea how many miles, my original t-case which also will sell with the truck should have 140,XXX, and still works.
Long story short I swapped the t-case but did not need to. 4x4 broke a year ago. I spun the front drive shaft and it turned to hubs so I thought the t-case was bad, swapped it out and 4x4 did not work. Opened the front diff and the spider gear was broken in half. Replaced it with an Easy Locker. 4x4 is super strong now.
When I replaced the t-case I had both drive shafts fully rebuilt. Because of the lift and the high angle of the shafts the shaft seals leak. Second t-case does leak a little, original that is not on truck now did not leak.
Gears should be either 3.09, 3.42 of 3.73, not sure but is stock.
The motor runs extremely well. It purrs, no joke.
Call me is you want to look at it. Thanks.
Do yall think this is a good deal or should I pass??? Would like to go look at it Sunday if is a good deal.
K5 Blazer, GMC, 1984, 9'' Lift, 36" Swampers, Fuel Injected
I did receive an email when I asked about miles on motor/trans/transfer case and this is what I got back:
Trans is original, should be 140,XXX, Motor is 1992 and I have no idea how many miles on it, T-Case is used and have no idea how many miles, my original t-case which also will sell with the truck should have 140,XXX, and still works.
Long story short I swapped the t-case but did not need to. 4x4 broke a year ago. I spun the front drive shaft and it turned to hubs so I thought the t-case was bad, swapped it out and 4x4 did not work. Opened the front diff and the spider gear was broken in half. Replaced it with an Easy Locker. 4x4 is super strong now.
When I replaced the t-case I had both drive shafts fully rebuilt. Because of the lift and the high angle of the shafts the shaft seals leak. Second t-case does leak a little, original that is not on truck now did not leak.
Gears should be either 3.09, 3.42 of 3.73, not sure but is stock.
The motor runs extremely well. It purrs, no joke.
Call me is you want to look at it. Thanks.
Do yall think this is a good deal or should I pass??? Would like to go look at it Sunday if is a good deal.
#2
I would never suggest this type of modded vehicle unless your very good with wiring
Most guys dont do very good connections and chances are you will need to make repairs to them down the road
I think the price is still to high
Most guys dont do very good connections and chances are you will need to make repairs to them down the road
I think the price is still to high
#3
cash usually works well with CL, but be warned, these type of vehicles need work,
and if it will be a DD, that may become expensive and frustrating, so if you are a savy wrench turning type of person that loves always working on a money pit, then go for it..
i dont mean that in a disrespectfull manner, only because i have one,and its a DD..
oh BTW it is a neat looking K5, and would make a great project truck
and if it will be a DD, that may become expensive and frustrating, so if you are a savy wrench turning type of person that loves always working on a money pit, then go for it..
i dont mean that in a disrespectfull manner, only because i have one,and its a DD..
oh BTW it is a neat looking K5, and would make a great project truck
Last edited by okiedoak20; 05-03-2013 at 05:03 PM.
#4
All the electrical tape under the hood is enough for me to say no.
#6
Thanks everyone for the input! It would be a pt time DD until I sell my pick up (76 gmc 2wd) then Id get a smaller car to be the DD. I never really noticed the electrical tape, and I can see where that would be a concern being the motor is about 10yr newer than the orig truck...and more than likely 'spliced' in poorly. I sure dont mind working on a vehicle here and there...but sure dont want/need to have to work on it DAILY just to go to and from work/trails/cruise around. I guess as a piece of mind I could ask who did the motor swap and inquire about the tape harness lol.
#7
Thanks everyone for the input! It would be a pt time DD until I sell my pick up (76 gmc 2wd) then Id get a smaller car to be the DD. I never really noticed the electrical tape, and I can see where that would be a concern being the motor is about 10yr newer than the orig truck...and more than likely 'spliced' in poorly. I sure dont mind working on a vehicle here and there...but sure dont want/need to have to work on it DAILY just to go to and from work/trails/cruise around. I guess as a piece of mind I could ask who did the motor swap and inquire about the tape harness lol.
Every issue you have is going to be unique to that truck
The other thing if you plan on going forward with is ask if he has a build sheet keeping track of what the parts came from , because it will be a PIA every time you need a alternator, valve cover gasket or fuel pump etc because it could be from/for just about anything
The fact he switched out the transfer case when it was a gear issue ,questions the builder/sellers ability also
Its going to be a money pit IMO
Last edited by rexazz2; 05-03-2013 at 09:10 PM.
#8
I have to go with the consensus here. Not to mention that 36s with any of the gear ratios listed are going to suck on the low end, and you'll be passing no gas station if you swap them out for 4.33s, 4.56s, 4.88s, whatever, because that truck will have a direct drive transmission, with no overdrive. So your low end will suck if you try taking it off-road, as will your high end.
#9
I have to go with the consensus here. Not to mention that 36s with any of the gear ratios listed are going to suck on the low end, and you'll be passing no gas station if you swap them out for 4.33s, 4.56s, 4.88s, whatever, because that truck will have a direct drive transmission, with no overdrive. So your low end will suck if you try taking it off-road, as will your high end.
Last chance for Monster Blazer
#10
Direct drive has a 1:1 ratio... for every one turn of the input shaft, there is one turn of the output shaft. Overdrive is (any number lower than 1):1. For example, the 4L60E in my 97 Blazer has a .70:1 ratio, so for every 7/10ths of a rotation of the input shaft, there's a full rotation of the output shaft.
The 700 is basically the predecessor to the 4L60, but I'm not sure when they started using them... I had an 85 with a manual transmission, and that was the direct drive SM465. Maybe they started putting in overdrive automatics before then? I really don't know.
Looking at this new ad, I don't think 4:10 turning 39s behind a small block (when he says 6.6, I'm going to assume he's talking about the 400 rather than the Duramax diesel) is going to be too desirable. Maybe swap them out for some 4.88s, and you'd be in business.
The 700 is basically the predecessor to the 4L60, but I'm not sure when they started using them... I had an 85 with a manual transmission, and that was the direct drive SM465. Maybe they started putting in overdrive automatics before then? I really don't know.
Looking at this new ad, I don't think 4:10 turning 39s behind a small block (when he says 6.6, I'm going to assume he's talking about the 400 rather than the Duramax diesel) is going to be too desirable. Maybe swap them out for some 4.88s, and you'd be in business.