A/C temp
#1
A/C temp
My Bravada was low on R-134a so I put about 12 ounces of it in the system and now it blows so cold, I almost need a jacket, even in 85f + temps outside.
What should the temp read at the vent? It's already cold enough for me, I was just curious as to what the temp should be.
I also found out that the climate control still works, which is a bonus.
What should the temp read at the vent? It's already cold enough for me, I was just curious as to what the temp should be.
I also found out that the climate control still works, which is a bonus.
#4
With R134a clutch cycling systems, rule of thumb is a 20 degree drop from ambient. If you get more than that, consider it a bonus. As ambient temperature and relative humidity rise, so does outlet temperature. The ONLY way to know how much refrigerant is in the system, is to drain, evacuate, and recharge with the proper amount. A matter of 2 ounces too much or too little will affect cooling performance. Better to be under charged than over charged. Over charged can cause high side pressure to blow lines.
#6
Your system is working very efficiently!
A/C is the removal of heat, not the addition of cold. As ambient temperature and relative humidity rise, high and low side pressures also rise, which creates more heat, (catch 22, vicious circle). This causes clutch cycle times to increase to a point where the clutch remains engaged all the time, creating more heat. As a result, register outlet temp increases. This is why checking pressures and cycle times will not accurately indicate the level of refrigerant charge, (too many variables involved). This is also why the system must be drained, evacuated and recharged, with the proper amount of refrigerant, before any type of accurate diagnosis can be made.
A/C is the removal of heat, not the addition of cold. As ambient temperature and relative humidity rise, high and low side pressures also rise, which creates more heat, (catch 22, vicious circle). This causes clutch cycle times to increase to a point where the clutch remains engaged all the time, creating more heat. As a result, register outlet temp increases. This is why checking pressures and cycle times will not accurately indicate the level of refrigerant charge, (too many variables involved). This is also why the system must be drained, evacuated and recharged, with the proper amount of refrigerant, before any type of accurate diagnosis can be made.
#7
I have a recharge hose with a gauge, and according to the gauge, I didn't go over. I got it in the middle of the green and that was it.
I thought it was low because it wasn't blowing very cold. Works fine now!
I thought it was low because it wasn't blowing very cold. Works fine now!
#8
The green range is low side pressure. It is controlled by the clutch cycling switch on the accumulator. It should keep low side pressure between 22psi and 42psi when the system is operating. Even if the system is grossly overcharged, the switch will maintain that pressure in the accumulator. The problem with monitoring low side only, is you have no idea where high side pressure is, and that's where problems start.
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