I have a 2004 4dr 4x4 blazer. I'm looking at this Rough Country 2.5inch suspension lift, but have read some crappy reviews on it. If yall think it's worth it, I'll throw one in. If not, tell me the best way to get enough lift to fit 31's comfortably.

 

Everything will have bad reviews, If people did not buy things based on reviews. nothing would get sold or bought.

 

ive learned not to pay attention to bad reviews,here is why. The typical person buys something,and everything works out good. they aren't going to get online and leave a good review. Then you have this other guy that got a defected part and is pissed off so he goes online and leaves a negative.

 

Front chassis ride height on T body GM vehicles needs to be within specs. A suspension lift will cause premature failure on steering linkage, suspension parts and CV joints, (half shafts). If you want/need the vehicle to sit higher, a body lift is a much better choice. Leave the ride height alone, or be prepared for ongoing expenses

 

if you look at every life out there you will see that all of them have bad reviews doesnt matter what lift everyone has the .2 of what they think

 

not entireley true it will cause some wear on ur front end but ive had mine lifted for over a year and i replaced all my ball joints and tie rods and idler arm and pitman arm with moog genuine parts with greasable ends. just make sure u service ur front suspension each oil change with premium syntetic grease it will cause less wear on ur front end. never use cheap parts as u pay for what u get. also use a needle for a grease gun and pump fresh new grease into ur cv boots to keep the needle berrings from binding or wearing out.

 

What part of my statement is "not entirely true"? I agree that using good quality parts is always a good idea, but when chassis ride height is out of spec, the geometry of the suspension and steering linkage changes. It doesn't matter what quality parts you use if the geometry is off, they're going to fail prematurely. You're forcing the parts to operate in a range that they were not designed to operate in.

 

Whats the point of a 2.5" lift for hundreds of dollars??? Why dont you go on eBay, spend $30-40 on rear lift shackles in 2-3" range, and put those on. Then you take the truck over to the alignment shop, pay for an alignment, and as the mechanics to adjust the tortion bars up as high as they can go while still maintaining proper specs (they adjust the tbars as part of an alignment anyways). You will end up with about 2" front lift, and 3" rear lift, and have spent the cost of the shackles and alignment ($120 or so) instead of that lift kit. Thats just my .02 but that kit is a complete waste of money and work to install aftermarket lift keys when your factory keys can do the exact same thing. The aftermarket keys are for cranking the tbars out of spec.

Heres my blazer. Its got a 3" PA body lift, 33" tires, and lifted stock keys and 3" rear shackles with Z71 shocks.
$140 - PA body lift kit
$30 - rear shackles
$1700 - 5x 17s with 33s
$200 - Z71 shocks
$70 - alignment

Looks awesome, alignment angles are all fine, and I didnt need a tiny lift kit.

 

Alright, ohsofly what is a shackle? I thought shackles were for the front and people just do add a leaf in the back. The second half of my post is I just want to get 31's under there without any rubbing. If I can do that with shackles and the torsion bars then thats what I'm gunna do, I just want to make sure that's all i need before I start any work.

 

shackles are the little arms that the leaf springs attach to,which attaches to the frame.