Im looking to buy an 02 blazer most of the reviews ive seen have been pretty positive. I would like some input from you all on your experiences and such. the one im looking at has 1 owner 166xxx miles Automatic. going to go see it in person soon just wanted any info i can get before making a decision. thank you in advance friends.

 

You cannot find any substitute for a Blazer if you want a 4-door, smaller body-on-frame, 4wd vehicle with a V6.

Features to look for would include the Auto-4wd system what is often called the "four button" transfer case. This has an extra setting in addition to 2hi, 4hi, and 4lo that will have the transfer case go in and out of 4wd as necessary. I like it for the extra peace of mind when driving on roads that are only partially covered with snow and ice.

If you want to tow, you should look at the RPO codes for the axle ratios. (RPO Codes.com- GM option codes,GM rpo codes,General Motors options) The website for the GM Heritage Center has old literature including dealer promotional fliers that list the options. The GT4 is the 3.73:1 ratio and the G80 is the locking rear end. I have these and like them because I tow a boat and go off pavement.

I think you should be able to find a thread on the things that can go wrong on these. Most of these things are annoying.

If you plan to do any repairs yourself, the repairs are generally not too bad. Off the top of my head some of the Blazer-specific things to expect:

• worn out front end components (ball joints, hubs, idler arm, etc) This is common.
• leaky oil lines for the remote oil filter (common too)
• sediment in cooling system if the old Dexcool was mixed with the old green stuff. The newer coolants of both types can be mixed.
• clogged heater core (see above)*
• rotten vacuum hoses that make the HVAC actuators that direct to where air vented not work. These vacuum system also prevents the front axle to engage (super easy fix)
• bad transfer case control module. This is an easy fix. If you hear lots of clicking from the passenger side kick panel, it the the TCCM not working.
• bad 3/4 clutch-pack in transmission*
• bad lower intake manifold (LIM) gaskets that allow coolant to leak into the engine lifter valley.* (this might have been remedied by 2002)
• dash wiring mess-up by bad home audio system upgrade. This can mess with the Body Control Module (BCM) that controls all of the electronic controls such the door locks and headlights.
• bad multi-function switch (turn-signal, etc.)
• transfer case to transmission leak. This has happened for the 3-button transfer cases. I'm not an expert this.

The items with an asterisks are the more involved to deal-killer level repairs of those I've listed. To replace the heater core means removing the whole dash. The bad 3/4 clutch-pack in the transmission requires a full rebuild. The LIM gaskets are an involved repair but not necessarily that difficult. Of course, if there is bad rust on the frame or body or if the engine makes bad noises, walk away. At 166k miles, the engine should have another 50k miles at least if it was treated and maintained well.

Depending on the gear ratios and if it is a 4wd model, don't expect great mileage. Tops for a 2wd 4dr are about 24 mpg and for my 99 4wd I might have reached 19 mpg on 60 mph highways.

Now, if you are not into working on your own vehicles, it could get expensive if you are going to pay someone to do your repairs.

Good Luck

 

The only issue with the 2002 I had was the lower intake manifold gasket leak, but a Fel-Pro gasket kit did the trick on that problem.

 

You have to expect with a vehicle that is 18 years old will need some repairs.But don't get discouraged. The parts are inexpensive and 'usually' straight forward' in replacing. If you don't have the tools or mechanical skills, be sure to line up some reliable independent shops you can trust. That plus the recommendations and info here, you will be happy you got the Blazer. I like to say that the little you will pay on R & R will be far less than the monthly payments for a new $40K to 50K truck. Take a look and see what I mean.

 

On the test run, see if you can live with the rattles and squeaks. Tailgate latch and lift window will need work. Radio and speakers will need replacing. Windshield wiper won't wipe water, power window won't work. Clear coat fails, wrong radiator cap won't work, overflow tank is full of crud, ABS is busted, rear caliper drags, can't jump battery, water leaks onto rear carpet near hatch, headlights too high, upper control arm bushings shot, steering wheel peeling, starter takes too long, car shakes when idling.
And that's just at 80,000 miles.

 

Make sure emissions readiness checks have completed and that no codes are present. Bluetooth OBD2 adapter and a cell phone OBD2 app are invaluable when shopping for a vehicle. I speak from experience.

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