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I am considering buying a1998 Blazer from an estate of a 90-year-old woman who bought the Blazer new. I don't know the mileage yet but the exterior looks to be in great condition. The vin is 1GNCS13W0W224----. (For privacy I have just used dashes for the last four digits) Can anyone tell me what engine and other options this vehicle has based on the VIN?
Also, what should be a fair value for this vehicle if the mileage is say 100K? It does run, as the deceased woman's son comes and cranks it regularly. The Blazer has been kept under an open carport its entire life, so paint still looks decent with no apparent rust or body damage. It was driven regularly up until the woman's death a few months ago. It is a dark green color.
Also, what should be a fair value for this vehicle if the mileage is say 100K? It does run, as the deceased woman's son comes and cranks it regularly. The Blazer has been kept under an open carport its entire life, so paint still looks decent with no apparent rust or body damage. It was driven regularly up until the woman's death a few months ago. It is a dark green color.
I went online and did a vin search and found out that the Blazer has a 4.3L engine. Is that a decent engine and what are the chances that it is still serviceable after 25 years. I don't want to invest money in a Blazer with a crappy engine, by design, with a multitude of known failure issues.
This motor was manufactured for three decades across gm brands and so there a metric s ton of them in the field. They were a good engine with a few issues common to most of them. They are not the smoothest idling motor out there but reliability has been generally good.
Probably the biggest issue are the lower intake manifold gaskets or LIM gaskets. They were originally made with some plastic content and are prone to failure leading to the need to replace them. I have seen their replacement called a rights of passage for Blazer/S10 owners here on the forum, I think by Christine. Its not a complicated job but requires an afternoon and careful attention to a few details. The best solution are the better Felpro gaskets which should then last the remaining lifetime of the truck. I went this route at around 125,000 miles, don't remember exactly.
Another rights of passage is the cam retard/timing chain/plastic distributor dance. The engine timing is controlled by the computer but the relationship between the distr location and crank position starts to drift with timing chain and/or distr gear wear. You need a capable scanner and a modified distr hold down bolt to put this back in spec. Some go for timing chain replacement and upgrade to an all metal distr instead of the OEM plastic one but I for one think that's overkill unless there has been a failure. I went with a new distr gear and an adjustable distr hold down and I am at 210,000 miles. The distr gear didnt even matter, the $5 hold down change solved mine.
The fuel injector spider comes up a lot and may be one of the bigger issues now because the original OEM spider was no longer produced and there were many complaints of after market spider reliability. This may have changed and better sources may be available again, I am not sure on this but I see a new AC Delco spider on Rock Auto now. Maybe another member with more knowledge on this can chime in. There was an upgrade in the style of injector assemble generally considered a better design and so many replaced their original units with the upgrade. I still have my original spider.
Its not the motor but most of us need to do the front door hinge bushings (I did these), sometimes the hood hinges.
Almost everybody has to do the in tank fuel pump after 100,000 miles which needs to be a Delphi or AC Delco pump. I used Delphi at 105,000 miles and my replacement has another 100,000 miles on it.
There are other random issues like HVAC controllers, multi-function switch, ignition switch, radiators, headlight circuits, transmission problems, wiring, etc but what I would consider 20 year old truck stuff, no matter the motor.
Oh, lest I forget, the #3 spark plug is a PITA to change. You need a modified socket, the special snap on tool or the steering shaft coupler pulled back.
The features are determined by the RPO codes on the glove box sticker.
As far as 20 year old trucks go, my opinion is that this is as good a choice as any but its a 20 year old truck and there will be problems. If you are not mechanically inclined and strapped for cash any 20 year old vehicle will be frustrating.
That said, we have a thriving community here because this truck still gets a lot of love with many devoted owners. We have a lot of knowledgeable and talented members here that keep a lot of Blazers on the road.
George
Probably the biggest issue are the lower intake manifold gaskets or LIM gaskets. They were originally made with some plastic content and are prone to failure leading to the need to replace them. I have seen their replacement called a rights of passage for Blazer/S10 owners here on the forum, I think by Christine. Its not a complicated job but requires an afternoon and careful attention to a few details. The best solution are the better Felpro gaskets which should then last the remaining lifetime of the truck. I went this route at around 125,000 miles, don't remember exactly.
Another rights of passage is the cam retard/timing chain/plastic distributor dance. The engine timing is controlled by the computer but the relationship between the distr location and crank position starts to drift with timing chain and/or distr gear wear. You need a capable scanner and a modified distr hold down bolt to put this back in spec. Some go for timing chain replacement and upgrade to an all metal distr instead of the OEM plastic one but I for one think that's overkill unless there has been a failure. I went with a new distr gear and an adjustable distr hold down and I am at 210,000 miles. The distr gear didnt even matter, the $5 hold down change solved mine.
The fuel injector spider comes up a lot and may be one of the bigger issues now because the original OEM spider was no longer produced and there were many complaints of after market spider reliability. This may have changed and better sources may be available again, I am not sure on this but I see a new AC Delco spider on Rock Auto now. Maybe another member with more knowledge on this can chime in. There was an upgrade in the style of injector assemble generally considered a better design and so many replaced their original units with the upgrade. I still have my original spider.
Its not the motor but most of us need to do the front door hinge bushings (I did these), sometimes the hood hinges.
Almost everybody has to do the in tank fuel pump after 100,000 miles which needs to be a Delphi or AC Delco pump. I used Delphi at 105,000 miles and my replacement has another 100,000 miles on it.
There are other random issues like HVAC controllers, multi-function switch, ignition switch, radiators, headlight circuits, transmission problems, wiring, etc but what I would consider 20 year old truck stuff, no matter the motor.
Oh, lest I forget, the #3 spark plug is a PITA to change. You need a modified socket, the special snap on tool or the steering shaft coupler pulled back.
The features are determined by the RPO codes on the glove box sticker.
As far as 20 year old trucks go, my opinion is that this is as good a choice as any but its a 20 year old truck and there will be problems. If you are not mechanically inclined and strapped for cash any 20 year old vehicle will be frustrating.
That said, we have a thriving community here because this truck still gets a lot of love with many devoted owners. We have a lot of knowledgeable and talented members here that keep a lot of Blazers on the road.
George
Last edited by GeorgeLG; May 28, 2023 at 04:10 PM.
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