So after getting my 1999 Blaz.er, I took it to a shop to get a idea
of what it needs repaired/replaced.

So I get my estimate, decided to get a second opinion at another shop, hmmmm......something different.

So I am taking to 9 different shops to see what the hell.
see attached comparison chart so far just on
suspension/steering and brakes from.

FYI the green block on idler arm was the shop installed by mistake.
So that became free,...but the next shop inline says I need one still...WTF ?

Anyone here from Vegas with a good reliable shop ?

 

Brakes are easy enough to diagnose yourself, provided you feel comfortable taking a wheel off the thing yourself. How much material is left on the pads? If the pads (especially the fronts) are really worn, it's normal for the fluid in the reservoir at the master cylinder to be a little low.

About the front suspension/drive line. Two questions first.

On the left front axle, is one of the boots torn or missing?

What's the primary complaint here, in non-technical terms. Is it just very shaky at highway speeds? Does it make funny noises on bumpy roads?

Both sides of the front suspension situation often do things that lead to misdiagnosis or repairs that are less than optimal.

IMO, if it gets to the point where the symptoms are described as "the old car shakes," the smart move is to replace everything that moves, all at the same time. So, on the suspension, I'd be over Sears.

You can replace only the parts that are failing and out of spec, but if it's already shaking, the shakes are putting excessive wear on the other parts, too. When you replace the one or two items that are out of spec (completely worn out), it will still shake "a little bit" and that shaking and vibration will cause excessive wear on everything (including the new parts). Doing it one or two pieces at a time becomes a vicious cycle.

If you replace everything at once, there is no vibration or shaking left. It will drive like a new car, and all the parts will last much longer than if you do it a piece or two at a time.

Are you considering doing any of this yourself? or just looking for a good shop to go to.

 

Welcome back cdtek. Keep looking. For those prices you have not found an honest shop yet.

 

some shops seem to be more pickier then others. pretty much any 15 year s10 comes in, technically you can write it up for every dang thing. the control bushings have hair line cracks, BAD, the ball joint boots are a little dry rotted, BAD.

ive never really been that picky when writing up cars. but pitman and idlers are pretty much a given on these cars, maybe that tech wrote the idler up due to other suspension parts moving and figured replace it all.

im just glad i never have to bring my trucks to a mechanic

 

My only notice was a little play in wheel, other than that seemed to drive pretty well. I have not had it long enough to look under it myself yet. But I think I may have found a decent shop today. I can't do these repairs myself so a shop is my only way. Thanks for all the input.

 

On the idler arm - pep boys mechanic replaced it on mistake, then 3 hrs later Sears stated in their report it needed replaced... Think I may have found a good shop today though.

 

Thank you.

 

My weekly update on shopping prices, ummmm well
I know I need a few things, but not certain on all yet
see attached pic,

Total at top includes other items as well just focused
on suspension/steering items in pic.

Prev post - "Taking to 9 different shops to see what they all say"

Anyone here from Vegas with a good reliable shop ?

 

Nothing you've posted tells me for sure that Sears was wrong here.

Some of the worst "come back" issues I've had were when there was a shiny new (and bad) part involved, and either I didn't check it, another tech pronounced it "good" without checking, or management/service writer noted a bad part was "new" and off limits for inspection/replacement.

Some shiny new parts are bad. Wherever you take it, have them check the idler arm along with everything else, and if that "new" idler arm has excessive play, replace it and take the "new one from Pep Boys" back to Pep Boys. You won't get money back if you didn't pay for it, but the folks there need to return it to the manufacture as defective, and they can put the replacement part back in stock.

I've never lived in Las Vegas, so I can't help with specifics. Unless it's absolutely impossible for someone to work on your car at home or while it's parked nearby at work, don't overlook the "mobile auto service" guys. Some of the independent ones come from closed dealerships and are really good techs.

Check references. If it's someone claiming to be from a closed dealership, they should still know how to reach their service manager and parts manager from where they worked. The key question for their former managers is, "Did this guy/gal ever work on your car or someone in your family's car?" The managers at a dealership know who the good techs are, and only the best techs work on the service manager's car or parts manager's car (or their spouses' cars, their brothers'/sisters' cars or their sons'/daughters' car).

 

Some people seem to think they are very smart and righteous in trying to prove someone else is dishonest. This seems to be the only reason for your posts here on the Blazer Forum so far. If I was a shop and I sensed this attitude from you (believe me professionals can sense such things), I would make sure my estimate was high enough that you went on down the road to the next place. Have you ever thought of this before? Believe me this happens, as shops don't want customers who don't trust them or will give them grief! Similar to the Heisenberg Uncertainty Principle - by trying to catch these "bad dishonest people", you may be altering the outcome. And you still will never know who is correct at the end of the experiment. Can't just assume that the shop replacing the least amount of parts has the correct diagnosis.


Best solution for people who don't have a shop that they trust, is to learn how to fix it themselves. .... and that I believe is the ultimate point of this Forum.


sorry, my 2 cents.