Un freakin' believable !!!
#11
My last 05 Jimmy got totaled , it was in great shape with a 150,000 KM...Insurance gave me $6000 Canadian dollars .......I think that's about $25 US Dollars ...LOL....I'm serious about the 6 grand though.
#12
I think they valued my 98 4x4 blazer at like 2700$ when it got hit 5 years ago. A vehicle totals at 75% of its value, and to have a body shop properly repair that, it could probably go 2000$+ it doesn't seem like much damage but to do it right they'd remove the rear bumper, quarter glass, replace the door, paint the new one(inside and out) remove and install all the parts from the old door to the new door, repair the quarter, prime it, block it paint it. Jamb has to get painted, front fender has to get blended/cleared for color match to the new door. Headlights have to get R&i to, etc
If you want I can punch the info into my estimating software at work tomorrow and see what it comes out to, just so you have something to put it against.
With that being said, if I were you, I'd buy that back from the insurance company (it would be super cheap)and keep driving it
If you want I can punch the info into my estimating software at work tomorrow and see what it comes out to, just so you have something to put it against.
With that being said, if I were you, I'd buy that back from the insurance company (it would be super cheap)and keep driving it
Now I've done my fair share of body work, (collision and restoration) and am pretty good at it if I do say so myself. (sorry if that comes across as arrogant it's NOT meant to) That being said, I know how "I" would repair it.........and it would not involve removing the fender or the windows for one. Also I would save a whole lot of time by Not trying to do a "blend" on the paint. (a blend might look descent for a little while but it wouldn't stay that way for long, the truck has never been painted and as such the new paint will oxidize at a different rate then the original paint) Given the amount of area that would end up being "blended" and given the areas that would be masked are the same it would make sense (at least to me) to just paint the entire side (the additional amount of paint/clear would be negligible) and be done with it.
99% of the damage is confined to the outer door skin, so just hanging a different door will actually take care of most of the repair.
At this point the insurance company does NOT have right or title to my vehicle (I did NOT permit the adjuster to "lock in" the estimate) so I'm fairly certain that I'm just going to have to drop the claim and repair the damage myself. (in the long run it's the cheapest alternative)
Don't I know it!!! I think over the years I've paid for my paint suppliers kids to go to college.
Since they value it so little, is it worth your while to take the payoff from the insurance and buy it back from them? If you can do that before they get the title and change it to salvage vehicle that would be best. Sorry to see that after all the work you've put into it.
#13
Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it, and could definitely tackle the job yourself
When I was saying blend, I was referring to blending the color out, but clearing the whole panel. If you were to spray the whole side with color, you would end up running into colormatch issues from fender to hood and quarter to lift gate. As long as you get a good blend in your basecoat, it won't show back up later. Using a slower reducer in your base helps to get a good blend. If you don't blend the basecoat you'll almost never get a good match
Sometimes people do blend clear it within a panel... You're definitely right about that, it will oxidize at different rates and show back up down the road.
Hope you keep it and fix it up! You should post pics of your progress if you do
When I was saying blend, I was referring to blending the color out, but clearing the whole panel. If you were to spray the whole side with color, you would end up running into colormatch issues from fender to hood and quarter to lift gate. As long as you get a good blend in your basecoat, it won't show back up later. Using a slower reducer in your base helps to get a good blend. If you don't blend the basecoat you'll almost never get a good match
Sometimes people do blend clear it within a panel... You're definitely right about that, it will oxidize at different rates and show back up down the road.
Hope you keep it and fix it up! You should post pics of your progress if you do
#14
Sounds like you have a pretty good handle on it, and could definitely tackle the job yourself
When I was saying blend, I was referring to blending the color out, but clearing the whole panel. If you were to spray the whole side with color, you would end up running into colormatch issues from fender to hood and quarter to lift gate. As long as you get a good blend in your basecoat, it won't show back up later. Using a slower reducer in your base helps to get a good blend. If you don't blend the basecoat you'll almost never get a good match
Sometimes people do blend clear it within a panel... You're definitely right about that, it will oxidize at different rates and show back up down the road.
Hope you keep it and fix it up! You should post pics of your progress if you do
When I was saying blend, I was referring to blending the color out, but clearing the whole panel. If you were to spray the whole side with color, you would end up running into colormatch issues from fender to hood and quarter to lift gate. As long as you get a good blend in your basecoat, it won't show back up later. Using a slower reducer in your base helps to get a good blend. If you don't blend the basecoat you'll almost never get a good match
Sometimes people do blend clear it within a panel... You're definitely right about that, it will oxidize at different rates and show back up down the road.
Hope you keep it and fix it up! You should post pics of your progress if you do
Yes, I definitely plan on keeping it (I've had it since it was new) I've had LOTS of plans in the works for a LONG time, (not to mention all the parts that I've already collected or currently have on order) and really I was just getting started when the accident happened.
Picked up a door yesterday for $100.00 complete. It's even the same color as the blazer (I'll still completely repaint it of course)
Today I've started prepping it,........gutting the shell and doing some of the initial clean up.
#17
I drive a tow truck and bring cars that are a "complete write off" all the time that are totally fine.
buy it back from the insurance and fix it yourself. that is not written off but in terms of value it's not worth it to them.
buy it back from the insurance and fix it yourself. that is not written off but in terms of value it's not worth it to them.
#18
Yes it was!!! I was absolutely amazed that GM only made ONE front door for the 2nd gen s10's. Pickups and blazers both take the SAME door (2 door or 4 it doesn't matter as long as it's the front) usually you don't get that lucky. Other than a couple of door dings it's in pretty good shape although the hinge bushings were OBVIOUSLY trashed on the donor truck so I may have to do some work on the lower hinge.
Took a look at your build.................VERY NICE!!!!!
Took a look at your build.................VERY NICE!!!!!
#19
The initial door prep: sanding, degreasing, and closer inspection.
As I suspected earlier there was a problem with the lower door hinge,......and a REALLY HORRIBLE attempt at trying to fix it!!! (luckily it wasn't that horrible to reverse)
Not in bad condition overall,.......few parking lot dents (bout an hours worth of "clean up" before a repaint)
As I suspected earlier there was a problem with the lower door hinge,......and a REALLY HORRIBLE attempt at trying to fix it!!! (luckily it wasn't that horrible to reverse)
Not in bad condition overall,.......few parking lot dents (bout an hours worth of "clean up" before a repaint)