It would help, even if only to help identify "Wont Start" problems on here, if folks still used the old 'hard starting' drill from carburetor days.. it still works, at least in our cars.

If you think it's flooding, hold pedal to floor right after you start to crank engine.

- When the PCM sees you did this it will cut down the injector cycle, delivering less fuel

If you think it's not getting enough, pump the pedal several times while cranking

- When the PCM sees this it will inject extra gas.

If one of those... or neither.. worked, it would be a good clue.


I wouldnt think this was necessary for any car nut but it appears there's a lot of mis-info around and I did due-diligent research and found much of it is being promulgated on the 'net by people claiming to be professional mechanics saying it doesnt matter becuase it's FI, not a carburetor.
- If any Pro mech ever tells you that as a flat statement never take your car to him for fuel system or ignition work.
First though..
KNOW YOUR CAR when it's running fine.
- That includes every sight and sound from when you open the door to after you've started it. If you dont pay attention to how it acts when it's all good, how are you going to know when it's sick?
Pay attention to and note EVERYTHING. Sights Sounds Smells. This includes going back to and listening and smelling at the tail pipe, while and after you've tried to start it and while it is running. Amazing how much your exhaust can tell you.

- This ALSO includes, of course, listening for the fuel pump to run a couple seconds after you turn the ignition on and before you crank.

- How does your starter sound when it's cranking. This is very important. A good starter doesnt call attention to itself and doesnt run long enough to make an impression if everything else is up to par. It's still important to know.

A dragging, laboring starter tells you the battery is low on charge OR there's a connection problem between it and the battery OR the starter is worn out.

Not going to get into diagnosis here, though.

If your engine cranks reasonably well but doesnt seem to want to start:

1. Switch key off then on several times. This will run the pump prime cycle to make sure you have adequate fuel pressure at the injectors. An in the case of vapor lock due to pressure leakdown help reliquify the vapor in the injector spider.
Try cranking again. Note. Dont crank more than 10 seconds at a time. 2005 Owners manual says 15 but if it's gonna start it will in 10.
Now comes the contentious part.

2. If after several attempts, you smell gasoline, then press gas pedal to floor WHILE you crank, let up after you stop cranking.
This action tells the PCM to cut down amount of gas injected during crank. It's important to do this during crank so the PCM notices it. {Otherwise it might assume a faulty TPS, I guess.}
Try several crank cycles.
- If you have to do this frequently, look for problems with fuel leaks in the plenum - injector or Fuel Pressure regulator assemblies

3. If you dont smell gas, even at the tailpipe, try cranking the engine while pumping the pedal.
This action tells the PCM to increase amount of gas injected during crank.
- This will help clear a vapor lock or get you started if you have low fuel pressure.

In either case you have problems that should be fixed ASAP.

Note: According to the 2005 owners manual, sect 2-22
Implicit in the instructions to start without depressing the pedal is the sense that doing so will increase fuel flow while cranking.
- Note: If you have problems starting without holding to floor it COULD indicate a bad TPS, as well, but it's not likely.

Now for the patented pettyfpg rant. Searching this on the net leads to numerous threads and questions:
"Why do I have to pump the gas to start my car?"
- in which some well meaning but ignorant people point out that it's fuel injection, not a carburetor.
That's bad enough.. but you will also see some claiming to be mechanics say it doesnt do anything, for the same reason.

If your dad, your friend, the guy down the street who rotates his own tires says that, just smile and say "No.. I checked my owner's manual"
{cuz you have... of course.. right? }
If some guy claiming to be a mechanic says that just smile and walk away and dont expect him to help fix your car if it has to do with the PCMWHY does this work? Because in the early days of FI, engineers realized that there should be some way of letting the owner try to clear fuel problems and it was easy to treat it exactly like it was a carburetor with Automatic choke.
Will this work on any car? If the manual says to start car without depressing the accelerator, then it probably will work on that car.

 

Good advise, I never claim to be a Mech, except a backyard mech (sometimes our own worse enemy, hahahahahaha). But, growing up without much cash, one learns to repair their own to the best of their abilities (sp). But, With todays motors the back yard mech is pretty much stuck in the back yard. I'm 64 and still do 90% of my own work on my cars up to 2000, after that, I'm stuck in the back yard. I also have a 2011 Nox LTZ 4 banger and I won't even attempt to work on it. Plus it only has 2300 miles on it, I don't want to mess with the warranty at all. But, as time grows on me, I find myself doing less and less on my cars, the old knuckle busting days are almost over for me. But I still have the scars! hahahahahahaha..
Thank you very much for your info.