replaced my broken glove box (just the outer part; separated and retained the inner portion so I kept my original option codes sticker )

 

Attempted to loosen the bolts holding the y pipe to the exhaust manifold after giving the a thorough bathing in pb blaster. No dice.
Bought a ratchet with a really long handle for my second attempt.
If that doesn't work, the next step will be impact drill.
But rest assured, in the end, I WILL WIN.

 

I suggest heat... Work from underneath, get a 6-point deep socket and long extension. Get the nuts red hot using an acetylene torch. It's a PITA, but if you break the studs, it's a huge PITA...

Good luck!

 

This, And when you get it hot, pour cold water on it if you can, it will expand and contract the metal fast and usually breaks rust free.

 

[*]The petcock drain had no where to drip "cleanly" to the pan. Fluid was running all over the place, dripping and made a nasty mess

I have no idea how those are designed but I've made drain deflectors in the past using 2 liter bottles cut to form a funnel with a long and short side and then hose to run it out through the best gap to work with. Sure beats wasting good clean anti-freeze which is why I devised one right after filling one of my older T-Birds with new fluid and right before needing to drain it to change the timing chain and gears.

[*]Dropped a upper fan shroud screw down into the engine depths. Christ help me, I never found it

If you ask me, I think vehicles sometimes just crave nuts and bolts and therefore suck them out of our hands never to be found again. Lord knows I've had more times than I can count over the years.

 

CRC makes a penetrant called Freeze Off that I had some success with on shackle bolts. It freezes the nut cracking the corrosion so that the penetrant can get in. It is a lot less messy than PB Blaster and a lot easier to use than heating with a torch.

You might try it first before more desperate and possibly destructive measures are tried.

Good Luck!

Christine

P.S. Extra edit: Read a review of this product that you should not use heat on the fitting after using it as there is a risk of the fumes igniting. Then again that could happen with any penetrant. What was recommended was heating first then applying the penetrant. https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...5002/7080144-P

 

Uploaded this finally

 

Finished buttoning up after replacing and doing the following:

• new upgraded Lower Intake Manifold gasket
• new plenum o-ring
• new throttle body o-ring
• new spark plugs
• new spark plug wires
• new distributor cap
• new rotor
• new upgraded fuel injector spider
• oil, lube, filter (Mobil 1 synthetic and Wix filter)
• power steering system flush.

And all done in time to get the 68 Mustang back into the one-car garage before our first snow that is to stick and accumulate.

Only thing I could not get to was a flush of the cooling system. Doing it now would have been ahead of schedule with it due next summer. Still, feeling good about what I got all done.

Whew!

Christine

P.S. Oh yeah, and it started just fine. With all the things I had to unplug the worry it would not start was in the back of my head. LOL

 

[QUOTE=blazen_red_4x4;682025]Uploaded this finally

www.youtube.com/watch?v=r8Oki_LlRuA&t=17s

Nicely done! Congrats

 

I'm also a sailor and we have a joke about all the hardware we drop overboard (that we never drop when the boats are on their trailers) is a sacrifice to King Neptune. LOL