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what have you gotten done on your blazer today?

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Old Sep 21, 2011 | 07:31 PM
  #4031  
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got everything back together on the k5. got it started but i doesnt stay running for long. if i try to give it gas it immideatly dies. also fuel is still coming out from where the fuel plunger thing is. no idea how to stop this or why its doing it. i rebuilt the thing so that it wouldnt do that anymore but oh well. any ideas guys?

on a different note the headers sound amazing!!!!!!!
 
Old Sep 21, 2011 | 08:21 PM
  #4032  
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Originally Posted by litterbug
got everything back together on the k5. got it started but i doesnt stay running for long. if i try to give it gas it immideatly dies. also fuel is still coming out from where the fuel plunger thing is. no idea how to stop this or why its doing it. i rebuilt the thing so that it wouldnt do that anymore but oh well. any ideas guys?

on a different note the headers sound amazing!!!!!!!
what fuel plunger thing are you referring to? PM me so as not to jack the thread. I might be able to help (i had a 77 k5 with a manual fuel pump)
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 07:13 AM
  #4033  
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litterbug, sounds like you have a problem with the float among other problems, but lets take the discussion over to your thread 'carb identifier?' and go from there. Taking tech discussions to PM deprives other members of the information.
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 07:22 AM
  #4034  
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sorry about that.

*moved!!!
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 08:28 PM
  #4035  
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im getting my cluster back tomorrow yay
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #4036  
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Seems GM decided to drop the options for the front foot well lighting & the glove box light after the 2002 model year in the full size trucks.

So today I picked up two metri-pack .280 female connectors (napa pn 725157) to put the wiring in the 'factory' locations, two 194 bulb sockets (napa pn 787103), and two 194 bulbs. A little wire, a few connectors, 30 minutes, and I had the foot well courtesy lights installed along with power & ground wires for the glove box light once I either find the parts in a junkyard or buy them (gm pn 12450028 - ~$5 for the light/switch & 12085535 - ~$12 for the switch connector).

The factory locations were B10 for the courtesy lights & C4 for the glove box light in the large connector that bolts into the back of the junction box between the brake pedal & parking brake pedal assembly under the dash. By using both factory locations, the foot well lights dim with the rest of the interior lights & fade out when they shut off as well. For the glove box, the circuit has a time-out built into it so if the glove box is inadvertently left open, the circuit will power down to save the battery.
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:02 PM
  #4037  
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Originally Posted by xgiovannix12
im getting my cluster back tomorrow yay
Speaking of cool things for tommorow. I get paid and then I will order my 55w 8000k Hids to go in some new h4 housings with a sharp cutoff.
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:08 PM
  #4038  
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Originally Posted by Thogert
Speaking of cool things for tommorow. I get paid and then I will order my 55w 8000k Hids to go in some new h4 housings with a sharp cutoff.
Can't wait to see it man.
 
Old Sep 22, 2011 | 10:38 PM
  #4039  
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changed diff fluid in front.... NASTY, also changed transfer case fluid... dark red came out... bright red all over my arms going in... pulled passenger side rear seat in search of fountain of youth....found nothing but water.... stupid thing... that's the only problem left... water leak... damnit
 
Old Sep 23, 2011 | 12:30 AM
  #4040  
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its amazing all the high-milage vehicles that never get a diferential oil change. last year i went through my wife's S-blazer and did fluids, rear was low and nasty, didnt even smell like hypoid oil anymore, front diff was nearly empty. once both were filled, seal leaks became evident, l.f. diff seal and l.r. axleshaft seal. did both the rear axle seals but only did the front one that was leaking. had about 175,000 on it at the time. its a wonder i didnt have ruined bearings in the front diff as low as the oil was.
 



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