what have you gotten done on your blazer today?
Banned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,162
I know what undercoating is and I definitely know what it can cause if done improperly. If you have rust, there likely is moisture. If you do not clean off the rust and completely dry out the area before applying it, you will seal in moisture and potentially cause the panel to rot out faster than if just left alone. It isn't as simple as slathering the stuff on and all your rust problems will go away.
yes i agree if you have the equipment (sandpaper,grinder,etc.) to remove the rust before you apply the undercoat, all the better.
BF Veteran
Joined: Jul 2009
Posts: 2,229
From: Central Il
I know what undercoating is and I definitely know what it can cause if done improperly. If you have rust, there likely is moisture. If you do not clean off the rust and completely dry out the area before applying it, you will seal in moisture and potentially cause the panel to rot out faster than if just left alone. It isn't as simple as slathering the stuff on and all your rust problems will go away.
Also would like to buy a body lift and slowly do the frame before installing each side...
BF Veteran
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 3,545
From: Tacoma-ish
took my owld blazeer door into the woods and recycled it.
5.56mm green tip slides right through it.
9mm can get the job done, but i wouldn't count on it.
.22 HP and #7.5 or #8 shot works for "sandblasting" only
.50 s&w is a sick, SICK round...
5.56mm green tip slides right through it.
9mm can get the job done, but i wouldn't count on it.
.22 HP and #7.5 or #8 shot works for "sandblasting" only
.50 s&w is a sick, SICK round...
Banned
Joined: Oct 2009
Posts: 145
The spots on my blazer are really small... but the tow hooks are just eating the salt and almost completely brown.... I have some undercoating, and was planning on waiting until it got a little bit warmer out to do it... also doing the battery tray, and the hood latch support....
Also would like to buy a body lift and slowly do the frame before installing each side...
Also would like to buy a body lift and slowly do the frame before installing each side...
That's also a great time to pop out your headlights and turn signals to make sure they aren't too oxidized.
Regards,
Thomas
but if the 13 to 15 MPG keeps up, i'm sriously gonna look @ this '91 K5 from North Carolina w/118,000 miles on it, loaded (even has the rare power mirrors like my 'Burb). he's asking $4900 obo. i know it won't be worse than my '98 S Blazer, and it'd be nice to drive a "real" truck again!
You've also got to take into account Tire Size, miles onthe engine, mods to the engine, tire tread all the fun stuff. My K5 was getting close to 8mpg before she blew and she was supposed to get around 12. But with 33s, a 350 with 200k, 3.73 gears and a couple non firing pistons oh and no mufflers. It brought that down a lot.
Last edited by ChevyBlazerChick; Feb 8, 2010 at 11:01 AM.
Today I finally got to take out my satellite radio. Jerks offered me 2 months free that I declined. The nerve! Haha it just wasn't worth having to make another 26 minute phone call to cancel again.
Also took a look and found out my oil lines are leaking somewhere...great...
Also took a look and found out my oil lines are leaking somewhere...great...
Banned
Joined: Aug 2009
Posts: 1,162
changed the fluid in the front diff, had about 1 quart in the very bottom, picked up a new wheel bearing, seal, and cups, new u joint for the driver side. things are coming together, just waiting to get my seats out to redoe the floor panels
BF Guru
Joined: Sep 2009
Posts: 5,143
From: GTA, Ontario, CANADA
see, this is why the US needs tighter gun laws, a perfectly salvageable door, needlessly laid to waste.
it's not, it's up here.
it was originally from NC, but i'm not telling you where it is now, 'cause seriously, i think it's time to drive something that feels like it worth getting 12 to 15 MPG.
