ah! forgot you had a choke. I kinda wanna convert my cpi injection over to carb. No benefits to it really,other then no more spider leaking. If i could do it for 150 bucks i would. But just a darn intake manifolds for these are like 200 bucks.

If you ever decide to throw away everything cause of problems throw em my way LOL

Im still excited about my trans mount...my vibration is 99% gone. it sounded like a mixture of a quiet engine knock,mixed with a blended puree of bad wheel bearings.

 

DDM is all Chinese. While the they can do some things well, leds are not their forte.

 

the HID's get inspected, the LED's on the other hand, usually do not

Side note, going to do the door bushings today.

 

Finaly after weeks I got these prebent aluminum sob trans lines installed.Never again do I want to fight and wrestle doing these things again.

 

I installed my Posi-Lok cable today. Pretty easy job...... only took me 7 hours and 4 different (home fabbed) dash mounts, lol. I still have to make some minor adjustments to it, but for the most part, it's done.
Here's the cable I used: Buyers RO9D3.5X10 Heavy-Duty T-Handle Locking Cables - 10 Feet

Way less $$ than the NAPA ones, and it's heavier-duty too. Plus the black handle looks better imo.

 

Very familiar with that "blended puree" - that's all the Jimmy did LOL!

Well a couple benefits I see with a carb: #1: SIMPLICITY , and #2: Quickest throttle response possible. Still haven't experienced a FI system that can rival a carb's instant, go-right-now, response, even in the motorcycle world. There's always a perceptible half-second delay or so when you mash it. My '07 Silverado is terrible for that, even with all the performance goodies.

I'm definitely sick of working on that Blazer. I'm just one more major failure away from listing the whole thing on eBay piece by piece. I'd probably sell that engine turn-key, complete & ready to go. I love that engine - best V6 I've owned .... at least once all the electronic crap was stripped off it.


Speaking of LED's, I don't know how good the good ones are today, but back 5 or more years ago, we couldn't find a set that wouldn't leak & fill with moisture, then die shortly afterward. Used to buy them from Recon Accessories - but every single one we used took a dump on us, so stopped buying them. I've got a set on my car trailer, and every couple years a few LEDs in one light will stop working, or flicker. Can't win with electronic lights up here in the cold, wet & hot, humid northeast I guess.

 

yea,simplicity is indeed a good one. my old blazer with tbi was extremely snappy. it was a mixture of some mods,and tricks i did. enjoyed it. Didnt have any top end past 4k,but had all the towing torque you'd need for a 4.3. It was fun getting my mother to drive it while i worked on her vehicle. she complained of the gas pedal. the electronic throttle body on the dodge was lazy. she had gotten used to that.

 

Today I will do the pins and bushings, did not get to them yesterday.

 

Well the pins and bushings did not work, and I figured out why, the part of the frame where the body bushings sandwich is rusted enough that the body bushings slightly come through that hole, causing the body to sag slightly.
So next weekend, I am going to make a template and cut out a piece of steel and fix that spot.
it should work perfectly, as the rest of the frame in that area is in great shape, just where the body bushing is.
So I will cut the piece of steel and bend it to be larger than the hole by about an inch or so where the good metal starts. then weld it in place and bam, no more sagging door.

 

I got my passenger side hub, cv axle, upper and lower ball joints, and an alignment done. Drives MUCH better now, no more noise. Also went to harbor freight and bought 2 6" off-road lights for 11$ each, and they are surprisingly bright