Blazer Forum - Chevy Blazer Forums

I just put a 3" body lift on my '87 S10-Blazer. Below are some of the things you might have to correct for the lift.

Gas Tank filler hose will need to be lengthened, should be a new hose in the kit, simple swap. Use WD-40 to soak the old hose, makes removal easier.

Watch for ground wires that need to be lengthened. I had one under the battery to frame (I spliced in about 6" of wire), one on the firewall to main wiring harness (removed tranny bolt holding it in place, and that fixed the problem), check the gas tank wiring, and check the body to back of block wire, also on the firewall (should be long enough).

Steering linkage will need to be adjusted and lengthened. Kit comes with the adaptor to lengthen it, however you will have to lower the column about 3/4", instructions cover it pretty well, and its not hard to do. I also had to unbolt my power steering unit from the frame to install the adaptor.

Brake lines should be fine, watch them though. Mainly next to the fluid resivour under the hood. The body goes up and the lines drop to the frame and then run to the axles. Mine were in a coil and the coiling extended just fine.

Radiator shroud- The lower radiator fan shroud will have to be cut off. Follow the directions. I hear some kits just lower the shroud.

T-case linkage- If you have push button 4x4 t-case, just make sure the cable isn't stretched. If you have a manual floor shifter, you will need to adjust the floor opening to compensate. Again the instruction cover this.

Tranny linkage- If you have a '95 or newer truck you should have a cable instead of the linkage. Again, make sure it isn't stretched. If you have the linkage, you will need to weld in a 3" piece to lengthen the linkage. The rod comes as part of the kit, adn it shouldn't cost much to have it welded in place. Cost me $10.

Verify that all your cable, wires, and hoses in the engein compartment are not stretched or too tight, adjust where necessary. I found a broken vacuum line during my body lift, replaced it and fixed a naging intermittent hesatation problem, and fixed my heater control issue.

I recommend buying the gap gaurd kit, or making one yourself. Find your local sheet feed printer and ask if you can have a couple of "press blankets". They are made of rubber with a woven cloth back. They are extremely durable and withstand all sorts of chemicals. They are used to transfer images from printing plates to paper thousands of times. Old press blankets work perfect and the printer just throws them away. I spray painted the rubber side black and used 3/4" self tapping hex head screws with rubber and metal washers to attach them to the body. Box of 50 cost like $5.

One thing I haven't covered yet. The body bolts. In your case they have been in there since '89. Mine are 2 years older and have never been removed, at least not to my knowledge. I use PB Blaster on the front mounts, the nuts can be seen below the frame. The other 8 body bolts are not that easy. The other 8 bolts nuts are encased in a steel pocket. IF you should happen to break the nut free. Don't sweat it. Drill a 2" hole in the floor of the truck over where you think the bolt is, move the carpet out of the way. The nut is about 1 1/4" square and is welded to the body. 4 of those nut welds broke free on me and I had to drill the 2" hole. I used a prybar wedged between the hole in the floor and the nut to remove the bolt. The only nut that was really tricky was in the very back, by the rear bumper. I had to drill through the floor, and then a angled subfloor to get to the nut.

The body lift is not a hard thing to install, and definetly helps if you have friends who can help. Hope that was helpfull. Teh body lift kit costs roughly $100. I have no idea how much it would cost to have one installed.