Talked to someone about getting a body lift and they said sometimes its a big mess with moving all the wires and hoses and what not around but he said it all depends on the vehicle. Sometimes it can be easy and sometimes its more indepth.

So I was wondering how much work is it to put a 3in body lift on a 89 Chevy s-10 blazer?

Also what are some other lifts I can do besides body and suspension? I don't wanna put a suspension on it and spend all that money when I am gonna be selling it after winter.

Just want to put a lift on thats no more the 200-300 maybe?

Thanks

 

I just put a 3" body lift on my '87 S10-Blazer. Below are some of the things you might have to correct for the lift.

Gas Tank filler hose will need to be lengthened, should be a new hose in the kit, simple swap. Use WD-40 to soak the old hose, makes removal easier.

Watch for ground wires that need to be lengthened. I had one under the battery to frame (I spliced in about 6" of wire), one on the firewall to main wiring harness (removed tranny bolt holding it in place, and that fixed the problem), check the gas tank wiring, and check the body to back of block wire, also on the firewall (should be long enough).

Steering linkage will need to be adjusted and lengthened. Kit comes with the adaptor to lengthen it, however you will have to lower the column about 3/4", instructions cover it pretty well, and its not hard to do. I also had to unbolt my power steering unit from the frame to install the adaptor.

Brake lines should be fine, watch them though. Mainly next to the fluid resivour under the hood. The body goes up and the lines drop to the frame and then run to the axles. Mine were in a coil and the coiling extended just fine.

Radiator shroud- The lower radiator fan shroud will have to be cut off. Follow the directions. I hear some kits just lower the shroud.

T-case linkage- If you have push button 4x4 t-case, just make sure the cable isn't stretched. If you have a manual floor shifter, you will need to adjust the floor opening to compensate. Again the instruction cover this.

Tranny linkage- If you have a '95 or newer truck you should have a cable instead of the linkage. Again, make sure it isn't stretched. If you have the linkage, you will need to weld in a 3" piece to lengthen the linkage. The rod comes as part of the kit, adn it shouldn't cost much to have it welded in place. Cost me $10.

Verify that all your cable, wires, and hoses in the engein compartment are not stretched or too tight, adjust where necessary. I found a broken vacuum line during my body lift, replaced it and fixed a naging intermittent hesatation problem, and fixed my heater control issue.

I recommend buying the gap gaurd kit, or making one yourself. Find your local sheet feed printer and ask if you can have a couple of "press blankets". They are made of rubber with a woven cloth back. They are extremely durable and withstand all sorts of chemicals. They are used to transfer images from printing plates to paper thousands of times. Old press blankets work perfect and the printer just throws them away. I spray painted the rubber side black and used 3/4" self tapping hex head screws with rubber and metal washers to attach them to the body. Box of 50 cost like $5.

One thing I haven't covered yet. The body bolts. In your case they have been in there since '89. Mine are 2 years older and have never been removed, at least not to my knowledge. I use PB Blaster on the front mounts, the nuts can be seen below the frame. The other 8 body bolts are not that easy. The other 8 bolts nuts are encased in a steel pocket. IF you should happen to break the nut free. Don't sweat it. Drill a 2" hole in the floor of the truck over where you think the bolt is, move the carpet out of the way. The nut is about 1 1/4" square and is welded to the body. 4 of those nut welds broke free on me and I had to drill the 2" hole. I used a prybar wedged between the hole in the floor and the nut to remove the bolt. The only nut that was really tricky was in the very back, by the rear bumper. I had to drill through the floor, and then a angled subfloor to get to the nut.

The body lift is not a hard thing to install, and definetly helps if you have friends who can help. Hope that was helpfull. Teh body lift kit costs roughly $100. I have no idea how much it would cost to have one installed.

 

Damn dude...that was alot of help

Yeah I noticed they cost around $100.

I will be really using your post for help. My soon to be step uncle is like the man to do that stuff. Pretty damn smart with anything that involves vehicles. He is building a 68 Mustang at the moment...*drools* lol.

Anyway...thanks for the list of things. Like I said I will be using your post for sure.

I was already planning on the gap gaurds but I was wondering about the bumper bracket. Is that a big deal to get or no?

 

What would one charge for putting on a body lift?

Was gonna call my step uncle and see if he would help if I pay him.

 

Does anyone make a bodylift for 98-05 blazers? Ive looked and seen notta =/.

 

http://www.suspensionconnection.com/...uscon/152.html


Thats a 98-03

 

Doa web search for a company called Performance Accessories. Seems like everybody likes their body lift kits the best. I myself have a TrailMaster body lift kit. Many vendor sell the PA kit.

If you don't use the bumper brackets, you bumper will be 3" lower then the rest of the body. I like installing the front bumper brackets, and will be making a gap guard for the rear bumper.

 

AWESOME WRITE UP!!! THANK YOU!!!

 

I would love to get that 2 inch lift but if I have to go through all of what post two said then there is no way I can do it. That gets way to involved for me, nor do I have the time at the moment to do that. What do you guys think an autobody shop would charge to install it?

 

I HEARD that they charge around $500 to $600 to do itbecause it is supposed to be about 7 to 8 hrs worth of work. Anyway has anyone done a BL on a newer blazer is their anything different that should be watching out for other than what was said above. And what is involved in bringing the back bumper or is it alot of work???