door lock switch(1st gen)
#1
09-24-2006, 11:31 PM
door lock switch(1st gen)
My driver power door lock SWITCH doesnt work, Ive replaced the switch because the actuator still work off the passenger lock switch.
I cant figure this one out, the wires between the switch and actuator are fine, not burnt or broken. Anyone got any ideas before I make a new harness?
Thanks
I cant figure this one out, the wires between the switch and actuator are fine, not burnt or broken. Anyone got any ideas before I make a new harness?
Thanks
#2
09-25-2006, 02:33 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
If you swapped the passenger side switch to the drivers side and it works, I'd say you bought a faulty switch.
Does the switch you bought work on the passenger side?
I hope I understood your post.
Does the switch you bought work on the passenger side?
I hope I understood your post.
#3
09-25-2006, 08:53 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
They both work on the passenger side, thats the odd part.
#4
09-26-2006, 09:42 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
20 viewers and only 1 guy replies, thought this place was for blazer people.
#5
09-26-2006, 09:47 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
Have you checked continuity on the wires to make sure that there isn't a break somewhere in them? Wires can look 100% brand new and still have a break internal to the insulation.
Aside from that, it is VERY difficult to help someone out that doesn't even provide the very basic of information about the vehicle being worked on. So don't criticize us for your lack of information. And the '(1st gen)' on the title spans a VERY wide range of vehicles with numerous changes to wiring, etc. along the way.
Aside from that, it is VERY difficult to help someone out that doesn't even provide the very basic of information about the vehicle being worked on. So don't criticize us for your lack of information. And the '(1st gen)' on the title spans a VERY wide range of vehicles with numerous changes to wiring, etc. along the way.
#6
09-26-2006, 10:59 PM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
Have you checked continuity on the wires to make sure that there isn't a break somewhere in them? Wires can look 100% brand new and still have a break internal to the insulation.
Aside from that, it is VERY difficult to help someone out that doesn't even provide the very basic of information about the vehicle being worked on. So don't criticize us for your lack of information. And the '(1st gen)' on the title spans a VERY wide range of vehicles with numerous changes to wiring, etc. along the way.
Have you checked continuity on the wires to make sure that there isn't a break somewhere in them? Wires can look 100% brand new and still have a break internal to the insulation.
Aside from that, it is VERY difficult to help someone out that doesn't even provide the very basic of information about the vehicle being worked on. So don't criticize us for your lack of information. And the '(1st gen)' on the title spans a VERY wide range of vehicles with numerous changes to wiring, etc. along the way.
I thought I had the info in my sig, its a 92, 2 door 4.3 TBI 3 speed w/ OD 4x4. Its bone stock.
I dont have a multimeter but I have a test light it didnt light up.
Does this "share" any wires with the power window motor such as a ground?
The actuator works just fine on the driver side when the passenger switch is used just not the driver side, I did just replace my window motor, there is a hole in the bottom of the door by the fender, I have gotten that plugged for winter till I get the new doors,rockers and front clip.
I have a haynes manual here, is there a better wiring diagram out there for this? or should I invest in the factory HELM manuals?
I was in no way criticizing but I really didnt think that the wiring changed for something so simple. 1st time S series owner and first car that has had any form of EFI, so im new to the electronics....period. last car didnt even have power steering. So dont think im being an ***, just wanting to get this fixed with any help from anyone on this.
I do have to say this is one of the best/informative s-series sites ive been on, just trying to get some help on this.
#8
09-27-2006, 09:11 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
I got em to work great, can read it all clearly, thanks alot.
#9
09-27-2006, 10:14 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
From what I can see, you'll want to test continuity side to side and to the power lock relay for the 3 different lines that are common to everything.
Wire #194 is the UNLOCK trigger. It connects to cavity C on both of the door switches and connects to cavity A on the power lock relay. This wire is BLK (black) at the RH front lock switch and BLK/WHT (black w/ white tracer) at both the power lock relay and the LH front lock switch.
Wire #195 is the LOCK trigger. It connects to cavity B on the RH lock switch, cavity D on the LH lock switch, and cavity F on the power lock relay connector. It should be a LT BLU (light blue) wire on all of these connectors.
Wire #80 I beleive is the +12v source to the switches. It should connect to cavity A on both of the door switches and cavity C on the power lock relay connector. It is ORN/BLK (orange w/ black tracer) at both of the door switches, and ORN (orange) at the power lock relay connector.
Somewhere along the way, you have an interuption in either both #195 & #194 or just in #80 to the LH power lock switch. It could also be a poor connection at the LH switch itself.
I would start by testing for +12v at cavity A (ORN/BLK) of the LH switch. If you do not have +12v there, then you'll need to find a way to get there to test further. A jumper wire to any +12v source will suffice for testing purposes. With the jumper wire in place, try the switch. If it works, then you really don't have to test the other two wires, but now you have to replace that wire...
Good luck!
Wire #194 is the UNLOCK trigger. It connects to cavity C on both of the door switches and connects to cavity A on the power lock relay. This wire is BLK (black) at the RH front lock switch and BLK/WHT (black w/ white tracer) at both the power lock relay and the LH front lock switch.
Wire #195 is the LOCK trigger. It connects to cavity B on the RH lock switch, cavity D on the LH lock switch, and cavity F on the power lock relay connector. It should be a LT BLU (light blue) wire on all of these connectors.
Wire #80 I beleive is the +12v source to the switches. It should connect to cavity A on both of the door switches and cavity C on the power lock relay connector. It is ORN/BLK (orange w/ black tracer) at both of the door switches, and ORN (orange) at the power lock relay connector.
Somewhere along the way, you have an interuption in either both #195 & #194 or just in #80 to the LH power lock switch. It could also be a poor connection at the LH switch itself.
I would start by testing for +12v at cavity A (ORN/BLK) of the LH switch. If you do not have +12v there, then you'll need to find a way to get there to test further. A jumper wire to any +12v source will suffice for testing purposes. With the jumper wire in place, try the switch. If it works, then you really don't have to test the other two wires, but now you have to replace that wire...
Good luck!
#10
09-27-2006, 10:17 AM
RE: door lock switch(1st gen)
ORIGINAL: swartlkk
From what I can see, you'll want to test continuity side to side and to the power lock relay for the 3 different lines that are common to everything.
Wire #194 is the UNLOCK trigger. It connects to cavity C on both of the door switches and connects to cavity A on the power lock relay. This wire is BLK (black) at the RH front lock switch and BLK/WHT (black w/ white tracer) at both the power lock relay and the LH front lock switch.
Wire #195 is the LOCK trigger. It connects to cavity B on the RH lock switch, cavity D on the LH lock switch, and cavity F on the power lock relay connector. It should be a LT BLU (light blue) wire on all of these connectors.
Wire #80 I beleive is the +12v source to the switches. It should connect to cavity A on both of the door switches and cavity C on the power lock relay connector. It is ORN/BLK (orange w/ black tracer) at both of the door switches, and ORN (orange) at the power lock relay connector.
Somewhere along the way, you have an interuption in either both #195 & #194 or just in #80 to the LH power lock switch. It could also be a poor connection at the LH switch itself.
I would start by testing for +12v at cavity A (ORN/BLK) of the LH switch. If you do not have +12v there, then you'll need to find a way to get there to test further. A jumper wire to any +12v source will suffice for testing purposes. With the jumper wire in place, try the switch. If it works, then you really don't have to test the other two wires, but now you have to replace that wire...
Good luck!
From what I can see, you'll want to test continuity side to side and to the power lock relay for the 3 different lines that are common to everything.
Wire #194 is the UNLOCK trigger. It connects to cavity C on both of the door switches and connects to cavity A on the power lock relay. This wire is BLK (black) at the RH front lock switch and BLK/WHT (black w/ white tracer) at both the power lock relay and the LH front lock switch.
Wire #195 is the LOCK trigger. It connects to cavity B on the RH lock switch, cavity D on the LH lock switch, and cavity F on the power lock relay connector. It should be a LT BLU (light blue) wire on all of these connectors.
Wire #80 I beleive is the +12v source to the switches. It should connect to cavity A on both of the door switches and cavity C on the power lock relay connector. It is ORN/BLK (orange w/ black tracer) at both of the door switches, and ORN (orange) at the power lock relay connector.
Somewhere along the way, you have an interuption in either both #195 & #194 or just in #80 to the LH power lock switch. It could also be a poor connection at the LH switch itself.
I would start by testing for +12v at cavity A (ORN/BLK) of the LH switch. If you do not have +12v there, then you'll need to find a way to get there to test further. A jumper wire to any +12v source will suffice for testing purposes. With the jumper wire in place, try the switch. If it works, then you really don't have to test the other two wires, but now you have to replace that wire...
Good luck!
Im printing that out, ill take that to the garage with me this evening and get this crap working. You rock, I dont understand it all but im sure when its right infront of me itll all click in my head. Im better at hands on then just understanding on paper but I will win this war. stupid electronics.