Anybody have any advice on replacing the front hub bearing assembly. local garage quote was riddiculous so i was thinking of trying it myself?

This is on my 99.

Thanks!!!

 

What did they quote for the parts? I am in need of doing the same thing. Isn't all that difficult to replace it, but the problem is that the part costs $250+ (have only checked Napa so far). The hub has an integrated ABS sensor...

 

I found the assembly at autozone for 119 online. I haven't gone in and physically looked at it to see what it does and doesn't contain though.

 

Hmm... Never heard of Dynapak before, but I show it at $139.99 for our application (have to make sure it's for the 4wd). I'd much rather spend a bit more and get the SKF bearing from Advanced for $159.99. Napa had a cheaper one as well, but I have never had good luck with the cheap alternatives. Also have to make sure that they are coming with the integrated wheel speed sensor.

Also, my service manual states the times for replacement and it also states that it is not including the alignment. I do not think that a wheel bearing replacement needs an alignment afterwords... I guess if something wasn't machined correctly it could throw things off a bit, but... I was told by an alignment shop that you really don't have to have an alignment done even after replacing the ball joints... Don't know about that one though...

 

Thanks! I will keep all of that in mind when I go parts shopping. I don't mind spending a little more for a better part.

 

Heck, I've gotta see what the AC Delco store here sells them for. I might just go genuine if it's within $20-30.

 

First off, if you follow the Hanyes/Chilton manaul they have you remove the tierod ends from the steering knuckle. That is where the alignment comes into play. They do the same thing if you replace ball joints, remove tierod ends.

There is a better way to replace the hub assembly. Here is a quick run down of the steps.
Jack the truck up and place it on jack stands.
Take the tire off, if no air tools loosen the lug nuts while the truck is still on the ground.
Take off your brake caliper, brake caliper bracket, and rotor. Hang the caliper, you don't want the weight of the caliper on the brake lines.
Remove the 36mm cv axle bolt.
Remove the 3 bolts on the back side of the hub assemble.
Beat teh hub assemble out. A cold chisel from the side (between hub assemble and steering knuckle), or a long punch from behind work equally as well. If you have an air impact gun, it works the best either way, side or back. A little PB Blaster doesn't hurt to free up the rust bond if your doing it by hand. Also a can of brake cleaner when you reassemble the brakes. Make sure there is no grease/oil on the rotor or pads.

Installation is the reversal.
Make sure you torque your cv axle nut and lug nuts to proper specs.
Air tools make this about a 30-45 minute job.
Depending on year of your truck, you might need torx bits to remove the caliper to caliper bracket bolts. Buy the set.

 

First off just wanted to say that this forum has been really informative. I have owned my most recent Blazer now for a few months and this forum has been the deciding factor in choosing between purchaing another blazer or going with an explorer. Thanks guys.

I have heard from several people that the cheaper Hub Bearings from Autozone and Advanced Auto break down after a year or so. I have another friend that replaced his with the AC Delco from NAPA and they have lasted more than two years without a problem.

 

Justblaze, glad you made the right choice.

A little know fact about those Exploders. U-Haul will not rent you a trailer to tow behind an Exploder. Call em up and ask.

 

Hehe. My friend's GF has an explorer and I asked him if he's heard of the U-Haul policy. We ended up calling U-Haul and true enough, to this day they still will not let you tow a trailer with an explorer