By "soak the exhaust supply line", I mean to spray sensor safe carb cleaner into the port where the EGR valve mounts to, then use a pipe cleaner - a metal twisted core with either copper/steel/stainless steel wires wound into it.

Other types of pipe cleaners include those used for washing dishes which have plastic wires (or whiskers - however you look at it). Another name for them would be a bottle brush or cup brush, but the one that you will need should be some kind of metal for the wires. It also should be around a half inch in diameter. They come in various lengths, but I couldn't tell you where to buy them from. I grabbed one off the maintenance shelf at work.

You could clean both the ports in this manner. The reason why I suggest this is because, as the carbon builds up inside the EGR valve, it is also building up on the inside of the supply tube. It can get a pretty decent coating on inside there and eventually it will flake off.

 

Will do this today right after getting out of the office...last time I cleaned the EGR I only sprayed the valve NOT the port...it was clogged and the port seem very clogged also but I was afraid to spray some carb cleaner in there...
Thanks man,

 

Not a problem. If you have any more questions, please don't hessitate to ask!

 

Sweet Bravada btw...

 

I took my lunch break to do this...

Cleaned the EGR valve which was dirty and the port was a lot more dirtier...used carb cleaner on both sides, an old toothbrush and a pipe cleaner I got from work...

Took out each one of the plugs from the right side and compared them one by one to the left side...they seem all the same...non have carbon buildup...

Truck is still wobbling at idle...[:@]

Will count to 1,000 before my nerves get me...

 

Should I buy an o-ring kit for the fpr? Or should I buy a new fpr?
Maybe this is the solution to pain...

 

You really should do a fuel pressure leak down test first. Second, if the leak down test didn't really provide much information, would be to pull the upper plenum off and look for a cleaned off spot from the fuel dripping.

You should see a pressure drop over a period of time if the fpr or an o-ring is leaking.

The o-ring kit is available from your local GM dealer for about $28 out the door. Don't be worried if you have afew pieces left over. The kit fits both 6 & 8 cylinder engines, so there are extra o-rings for the injectors as well as extra plate for the underside of the spyder body.

 

I will find a shop to do this test...
Man, I drove the airport with my wife and she even noticed the huge bad *** gas smell inside the truck!!!Damn...she never notices anything, 'till now...
When the fpr leaks do you smell that much gas? Specially if I floor the gas pedal the smell in much more noticeable...when I took down the gas tank I triple checked for any leaks and there are none...what really is bothering me is the shaking seems to never stop and that if I have the fuel level between 1/4 an 1/2 it all of a sudden goes to low fuel and the truck sometimes dies...????

 

If you are still looking for metal brush to clean out the EGR supply line I would suggest a bore cleaning kit from either a Sporting Goods store that sells rifles/shotguns or a Gun Store. The cleaning kit comes with varying sizes of metal bore brushes to fit differing sizes of rifles or shotguns. The brushes are made of wire that would be strong enough to remove carbon after having been soaked with a carbon cleaner for more than 5 min.

I might also suggest something like Seafoam or a Top End Cleaner to soak the carbon with. Just follow the directions on the can for use and you should be good to go.

Also if you don't find any leaking fuel with the FPR you might have a carbon fouled poppet valve in the lower manifold... the GM dealers have a service bulletin about this rough idle and there are two options listed; the first is to use high pressure cleaning system to dislodge the carbon after using the GM Top End Cleaner. If that failed to fix the problem, if you were still under warranty to replace the "Spider" unit with a newer style "Spider" that replaces the poppet valves with true direct port fuel injectors. If the warranty has expired then you have the option of chosing to pay for the replacement of the Unit to repair the rough idle...but you have to take it to the dealer to have them attempt to repair the rough idle...could be costly.

 

I will take the truck today to do a high pressure fuel injector cleanup and have them check if the o-rings are leaking...I'll see if they let me peek at what they are doing to learn a bit more!
I cannot stand to drive my car since saturday due to the strong gas smell and way too rough idle...mpg is af it was a v12!!! it gave me 18 avg, now I am getting 11mpg prolly[:@]...
Will let you know if this works, thanks to all for your help...
Appreciate it...