OK so I'm not gonna lie its being removed all of it. I tried saving it but the pipe broke and so ce I'm building an off road vehicle it's going in the scrap pile.
So I'm trying to find information on it something I have no problem finding on my Mitsubishi forums or Audi forums but I can find hardly anything on here. Google found a few things but all I actually find on this sight is OMG you know that's illegal you can't remove emissions from your car. That's a no no!!! I mean is this not a forum for automotive support ?
Not to mention the amount of responses I've gotten on here from people no matter what I'm asking about is slim to none. So why does the Blazer community seam so very unhelpful or so unfriendly. I mean I know I don't post a bunch of stuff sorry I pay as I go for my race car projects AMD that's what my blazer is.

 

sometimes people just dont have an answer,so they dont post. removing the egr system is most likely not a common thing. I know nothing about it, but would like to know more. I you you figure it out ,post how its done for the next guy.

 

So is this just a rant about not finding what you want? I see no request for information and no information about what it is you're working on.

I know for a fact that I have described the steps in removing the EGR system in the past on here so the information is out there. You basically need to fab a block-off plate for the intake and a plug for the exhaust manifold. What I have seen a lot of people do at the manifold is just crimp the tube shut and braze it closed to seal it up properly.

Since this is an offroad truck, I would also recommend you seal up the AIR (air injection reaction) ports on the exhaust manifolds as well and remove the AIR pump (under the radiator).

A tune would also be suggested to remove all of the codes and associated programming for these systems. This is more important for the EGR-delete as the PCM leans out the fuel mixture as the EGR valve opens. Also, since the combustion chamber temperatures are lowered through the recirculation of exhaust gases, without those gasses, it is suggested to richen the fuel mixture to lower cylinder temps to keep from burning exhaust valves.

Again, there is nothing new in this post that I haven't already posted in the past.

 

Thank you both for your responses. I did actually find your link I believe swartlkk. Also I don't have a California truck so no air pump to worry about. Your also correct to a point it was a rant. I posted on an engine build and suggestions in the brainstorming section AMD as of this original post I had crickets. Sorry to rant, mostly I've founded a bunch of people saying oh no don't do that it's illegal. Lol I've actually been trying to find some true evidence that it's bad for my engine in some way cause I've herd the scare tactic. I've also found a mention of going from CPI to MPI which I thought a 98 spider assemblie was MPI. I've also found mention of going with a marine intake conversion. Any thoughts on that.
So far I've spent about four hours trying to research this egr thing to come up with what common sense tells me. We do have computer controlled engines so you never know though. I would like to completely remove the egr to not just plug it back in.

 

Could have just bumped that post. The Performance section isn't frequented by a lot of people here which could explain the lack of responses. Members here tend to be looking for maintenance advice. But you barely gave it a day...

As I stated above, one concern from removing the EGR system from the truck is that combustion temperatures will increase which could end up damaging the exhaust valves. The easiest way to combat this is to richen the base fuel mixture through PCM programming. Lean=hot so by fattening the mixture, you'll cool the combustion chamber at the expense of a bit of efficiency (fuel mileage will drop). Given that this is an offroad truck, that shouldn't be a concern for you.

96 thru mid-02 trucks are SCFI (sequential central fuel injection; sometimes CSFI - central sequential fuel injection - I have seen it both ways in GM's own manuals) where the spider main body contains 6 individual injectors that feed pressurized fuel to 6 individual pressure actuated poppet nozzles. The poppet nozzles tend to clog over time affecting the spray pattern and, as a result, lowering engine efficiency.

The mid-02+ trucks have MPFI where the injectors are moved to the end of the spider lines where the old SCFI poppet nozzles were located thereby eliminating the often problematic poppet nozzles from the fuel system.

When it comes to the marine intake manifold and fuel system, that is typically done when people are looking to go to forced induction (centrifugal supercharger or turbo) as the plastic upper plenum on the 96+ engines (L35 & LU3) can be a problem depending on boost levels. Air flow through the marine intake is also more consistent than the spider system. The marine intake also offers up a variety of injector sizes (lb/hr) that for the longest time weren't available in the spider type system. The MPI fuel injection spider has a lower flow rate than the older SCFI spider (which is said to support up to 400HP in the Vortec 5.7L V8 with the original SCFI spider/manifold), but it is unknown whether the limit is from airflow through the manifold (which is restricted by having the spider inside the intake) or by the fuel flow through the spider. If I remember correctly, the stock SCFI injectors were rated somewhere around 22lb/hr and the MPI injectors are rated at 19lb/hr. That said, I do believe that there are companies selling upgraded MPI spiders with considerably higher lb/hr ratings, but it has been a long time since I last looked for this information.

The AIR pump was not just a CA requirement. Every v6 S-series truck I have worked on here in NY has had one. If you don't have the pump under the radiator inside of the passenger frame rail, then don't worry about it. I mention it because this system has caused many people dearly. If/when the check valves on the exhaust manifold go bad, it can allow hot exhaust gases to melt wiring and potentially catch the engine on fire. Better to double check and make sure that the system isn't there!

 

No there's no air pump . I am planning on ordering shorty headers. I'm thinking either Pacesetter or just a cheap set off eBay. I like the sound of the marine intake but I need to find more info on it. I don't think I'm willing to pay what there asking for them though.

 

OK I've been doing more reading on the marine intake and I'm really liking the sound of that. I've also been looking for a cheap used one but good luck with that. I did talk to a Tech that said there may be a lotto convert my current rocker arms to the old small block rockers that where adjustable which would save me a lot of money of I wanted a bigger can which I would really love to do that.

 

Since your questions regarding this thread title have been answered and you have another thread discussing your off road engine build, lets keep the discussion of anything else over there.