I want to run 31x10.5's and know that I need to come up 2" from somewhere. The body lift seems like more of a pain in the *** than the suspension lift, but I hear the suspension lift is hell on CV's and ball joints. So whats a man to do?

 

I would just go with a body lift, but if your the lazy type then go with the suspension shackles and tbar crank, it wears down ball joints and cv's though.

 

there are susp kits that offer drop brackets to keep OE cv angles

 

If you wanna spend $2k.

The 2' kits give you new upper control arms to correct the balljoint angles...but you're still risking the CVs.

 

Do the BL, much cheaper, doens't mess with suspension angles, easy to install. Just takes some of your time to install.

 

I am personally going with a suspension lift and why not do both? Thats my plans untill I can do a SFA swap

Marcus in Nebraska

 

You shouldnt really need both to clear 31's, but it also depends on his mechanical skills. If he is saying that a BL is a pain then imagine a non mechanically inclined person tackling a BL and the RC 2" suspension kit. But in my opinion the BL wasnt to bad, just kind of time consuming and it doesnt wear down the suspension any more than stock.

 

other than greater wheel/tire clearance, and appearance, what does a body lift give you? it doesn't improve clearance, does it?

what does the equipment/price list look like for a moderate (1.5"-2") suspension lift, done properly, minimizing risk to ball joints & etc.?

 

A body lift really only serves to increase your approach and departure angles. The rockers are a bit higher in relation to the tires so theres a better angle there...but no other clearance gain. The frame rails stay put.

For a 1.5-2' suspension lift, you need 2' lift shackles for the back (or you can go the add a leaf route). Then just a tube of grease to keep the front end lubed. I suppose a rachet socket wrench would help with the tbar crank..

 

But doesn't that then leave you with greater wear on ball joints and CVs? So do new control arms then come into play? And what about heavier duty CV boots I'd read about in one of these threads?

And, at what point are longer shocks necessary?

Also, with 2" lift, is it going to look ridiculous with stock wheels and winter rubber?