I just did a 2" BL to my 99 blazer and was wondering if the brake controller in the engine is supposed to be crooked now (it's bent down toward the engine). Before I did the lift, every thing was perfect and now I have a really bad rough idle (shakes constantly no matter which gear it's in and I can feel it shaking in the steering wheel as well). Not sure what I did wrong, but I did skip the directions to relocate the power supply on the passenger side below the battery. I might have missed a couple of the brake line clips if that could do it. I also have a ticking or popping sound (coming from the driver side dash) every time I hit the smallest bump. If anyone has a clue what went wrong that would be greatly appreciated!

 

Looks like you didnt remove the hard brake lines from the bracket that I think is attached to the frame. Follow the lines and you'll see the bracket I mentioned. Like I said in the PM, just go through the directions again to make sure you didn't skip anything.

 

Alright I relocated the power supply, but still it shakes like no other. Also, the engine is slanted up toward the front, Is it supposed to do that? I found a few more brake line clips to take off, but still no luck. There is a wire/line that goes up into the body directly underneath the driver seat and it is very tight. But I have no clue what it is.

 

That wire could be the ground wire for the ABS. My engine isn't slanted at all. Maybe broken motor mount? Not really sure why it would be like that. Check the motor mounts.

 

I'll check the motor mounts out tomorrow, but it's just a slight angle. I'm leaning more to my vacuum hoses. I found one a few weeks ago that was split in half and another that was starting to crack everywhere. I'm going to O'reilly's to get new hose tomorrow as well. Or it might be the distributor cap has gone bad and is leaking.?????? We'll see

 

Does anyone know which vacuum lines if leaking, would cause a blazer to shake in park, drive, and reverse? It idles at 600rpm, but has an extremely annoying shake. I've spent a long time looking at it and can't find anything wrong. When I start it up and apply the brakes, the brake pedal pulses for a second then stops--never did that before. It might be my fuel pressure regulator that has went bad, but people online say it's very hard to get to. Any advice.....????????

 

1. Any and all vacuum can and will cause poor idle/vibration.

2. Go back through the instructions item by item and check to make sure you did them all.

3. Not sure exactly how a distributor cap can leak? If so, what exactly is it leaking?

4. That slight vibration in the brake pedal could be a direct result of pulling your ABS module down by not loosening the brake lines.

 

I've looked through the instructions multiple times and I can't find anything besides not relocating the rear bumper, that I haven't done already. Today I started it up for about 5 minutes to listen for any hisses coming from vacuum tubes, but the only thing making strange noise was the a/c compressor. It was making a ticking sound, and then I noticed a large puddle of water coming from underneath the rear of the right front fender ( It was dripping pretty fast and I didn't have the a/c on, just the defrost vent). I'm thinking about taking it to a mechanic, but that's a last resort. Anybody else have this problem?

 

The water puddle you see is coming from a condensation hose that is located in that area. If you lift the rubber flap under the right fender you should see the hose. The way I look for a leak on my vaccume lines is by spraying carb cleaner on each line until I find the line that causes the truck to idle high.

 

Alright I finally got some carb cleaner, sprayed all the lines I could find and around the throttle body but nothing happened. So, I sprayed really heavily around the distributor ( the plastic thing with vacuum lines attached to it) and I noticed the engine knocked pretty hard. I did it again and the engine did nothing. So I'm still not sure what's causing the problem, but no error codes are showing up on my Hypertech max power programmer. Any more suggestions?