86 k5 lift
#1
86 k5 lift
hey guys im new to this forum but i just got an 86 k5 blazer and i wanna lift it im not sure if i wanna go 4 or 6 or maybe even an 8 and if i wanted to get crazi or found the money iv even seen some 12 inch kits, but im wondering if you guys can share with me what you guys have done , what needed to be done(gearing ect) and i would like to see some pics! thanks guys!
#2
I'm in the same boat here.
Anybody got any ideas?
I was thinking 2" body and 4" Suspension.
They suggest sway bar lowering brackets. Necessary?
What size tires would fit and what would look too small?
Anybody got any ideas?
I was thinking 2" body and 4" Suspension.
They suggest sway bar lowering brackets. Necessary?
What size tires would fit and what would look too small?
#3
A 4" lift will fit right on with no problems. A 6" kit MAY require longer drive shafts as well as longer front brake lines. For either kit I highly recommend a dropped (actually raised) steering arm.
When you get into the big lifts on a short wheel base full size you will get into problems such as having to rotate axles (creating caster and other steering issues), longer brake lines and e-brake cable, overpowering the brakes with the huge tires that follow, as well as other stuff that I have probably forgotten.
I always had good luck with a 4" or 6" lift with 33"s or 35"s and 3:73 gears. You can run 35's with a 4" lift with a little fender trimming. I have run 44"s with a 8" lift with a lot of fender hacking and 4:11 gears.
When you get into the big lifts on a short wheel base full size you will get into problems such as having to rotate axles (creating caster and other steering issues), longer brake lines and e-brake cable, overpowering the brakes with the huge tires that follow, as well as other stuff that I have probably forgotten.
I always had good luck with a 4" or 6" lift with 33"s or 35"s and 3:73 gears. You can run 35's with a 4" lift with a little fender trimming. I have run 44"s with a 8" lift with a lot of fender hacking and 4:11 gears.
Last edited by bandidolenny; 03-25-2009 at 02:07 PM.
#4
I would do a 4" suspension lift. Except instead of using the rear lift blocks (yuck), do a shackle flip.
Check out OffRoadDesign.com
Check out OffRoadDesign.com
#5
Steering arm= Pitman arm right?
Out of curiosity, why do you think it should be swapped?
Out of curiosity, why do you think it should be swapped?
#6
The steering arm is what is bolted to the driver side knuckle. It is swapped out for one that has a higher rise to it to maintain steering geometry.
If you were to go to a crossover type steering, you could do away with this. But there is more involved in that. I will be doing this on my K5 at some point. I already have the 2wd steering box which makes it all possible.
If you were to go to a crossover type steering, you could do away with this. But there is more involved in that. I will be doing this on my K5 at some point. I already have the 2wd steering box which makes it all possible.
#7
Most older fullsize K5s have sagging rear springs. Now would be the time to either install a new helper leaf into the pack or a whole new rear spring. Actually, I guess all K5s are older now.
#8
I would do a 4" suspension lift. Except instead of using the rear lift blocks (yuck), do a shackle flip.
Check out OffRoadDesign.com
Check out OffRoadDesign.com
#9
When I get this far I was planning on new springs anyway. Hadn't really thought of a helper spring into the pack. Will the helper make it "stiffer" as well as a little higher?
#10
The factory mount point at the back of the springs is only riveted to the frame. You will replace the rivets with bolts. You will not weaken anything by doing this. Many, MANY have done it with great success.