I'm looking at getting a 97 jimmy 4x4 4 door, to put a 4" rough country suspension lift on. But the lift im looking at is for 77-87. The deal is that this lift is much cheaper than even a 2.5" lift for the year of mine. I have some fabricating experience and such as well as a welder and torches and all that good stuff. So my question is; what will it take to put this lift on my 97. What will I have to buy/fabricate to make it work. I'd like to know before I buy the truck. Any help is much appreciated.

This is the kit just so you can read details.

Rough Country 4" Lift Kit 1977 1987 4WD Chevy GMC 3 4 Ton Pickup Suburban 150 20 | eBay

 

Ummm.... You'd have to SAS the front and do a flip kit in the rear. And in doing all of that you would gain well over 4". This kit is useless to you.

 

I'm not sure what "SAS" means.. But could you explain this to me? I don't see it being much different in a 91 suspension/frame from the 97.

 

SAS = Solid-Axle-Swap. The lift kit you linked is for a full-size K-series truck with a solid front axle. The S-series trucks and SUVs have an independent front suspension, so the kit won't work unless you replace the whole front suspension system with a solid front axle.

 

well if I bought 4" blocks for the back and the n2.0 shocks for all the way around. What would I need for the 4" suspension lift (cheap) in the front?

 

4in lift will almost break the half axels. It wont be cheap.

 

Sorry about the confusion earlier, I assumed you would know what that meant. And the rear is designed with the axle resting on top of the springs, so 4" blocks would actually lower it 4" not raise it

 

Ok so I guess what I'm getting at is I want 4" lift and im not trying to sound redundant and i DO appreciate all the quick replies. But so if I do a 2" lift can I crank the tortion bars out and make up for the other 2" suspension fairly simply? I'm just trying to stay away from 100% body lift

 

i have t-bar crank/shackles and 2" body lift on mine. fit 31's no problem. The T-bar crank puts the front suspension at severe angles and causes premature wear. i have already busted the front CV axle boots off while offroading and damn near busted a ball joint while normal driving (and i only put about 5k miles a year on my vehicles)

i would recommend the RC 2.5" Lift and a body lift. that will get you where you want to be. If i wasnt in the process of gathering parts for the above mentioned Solid Axle Swap i would change over to the RC lift instead of the t-bar crank.

 

I'm really just tryin to do it cheap. I'll be selling the vehicle. Is there a way to 4 or 5" body lift it, and throw on the gap fillers and some n2.0 shocks to stabilize it?