Kenny, this was my first big project, so I worked all day on a Friday, and a Saturday on it. Mind you, I followed the instructions that Performance Accessories included, to a 'T'.(more or less) Also, I was working by myself, taking a few trips to the tool store. I'd say aim for a weekend project if you start in the AM right till dusk. P.S We should sticky this video I made to help others

-OSS

 

Yeah that's what I was going to do is start on a Saturday or Friday after work and go until its done. I don't know how to sticky a video.

 

Just FYI if yours is a 96 some of the steps in the video will be a little different for you. I did mine and it took me 2 days because i started later in the day the first day. But it was pretty easy and my bolts weren't rusted so they came out easily with a breaker bar.

a couple things to watch out for is make sure you undo to wire bundle from the drivers side frame that goes to the rear of the truck. in the instructions it just says both sides of the frame and that kind of confused me because the step before had you in the engine bay. And also the rear bumper bolts are connected together so dont think you can take one out at a time like i tried. And also make sure you cut the bumper bracket perfectly or else getting the bumper back on will be a pain.

 

Thank you for the info cherry blazer

 

My first 1st gen took 3 hours drinking beer. I had an electric fan so I didn't have to mess with that. I soaked all the bolts down daily for 2 weeks before time. I also was building offroad bumpers so I didn't mod the factory ones to be raised.

 

i also wanna do this mod and replace all the factory rubber bushings to urithane for added strength. my question is what are some of the issues u run into doing this. i read the instructions on how to do the lift but theres always things u run into. i heard u need a new longer steering shaft or does the factory one extend to the length needed.

 

You don't need anything that doesn't come in the kit. Well, becides tools

 

I swapped from rubber to urethane when I done the body lift. Best time to swap mounts if you are gonna do it. With the 3 inch my stock steering shaft was long enough.

If you have headers you might have problems. My 60 degree headers I had to mod where the shift lever hit after the lift with a small dent. Other than that they fit fine but non of the tubes wrap the steering like they do on 90 degree engines.

 

So your steering don't bind a little bit on your first gen after the body lift neo , just asking because mine did bind just a little bit . And also when I did the lift all my cab mounts were good but the 3 inch lift cylinders drove them selfs right through the cab mounts , so if your doing this you might want to put some kind of plate on top of the lift blocks to spread out the force . And as far as doing the body lift , it was a piece of cake .

 

Alright gentlemen, its been awhile I know, but my PA body lift was given to me today for Christmas, the old man finally came around, he also made the mistake of offering me up his 31's. So now for the question, I have both stock 4wd rims as well as 2wd rims with the different offset, which rims would cause the least rubbing or am i just going to either way, I believe the 4wd's will rub sway bar and frame and the 2wd's would rub more fender. Also planning on 2" shackle and 1.5" tbar crank to help clear a little bit.