Today, 09:09 PM
jdespain
Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Cadiz, KY
Posts: 1



Hey ya'll, I'm not completely new to the 4x4 scene, but I have unfortunately been away from it for a while until now. I have recently traded for a 2000 4-door blazer. I have read a few comments about using shackles to add some lift to the rear and this confuses me. I tried this on my old Toyota truck, and it just allowed the spring to flatten out and added no lift. I am not trying to dispute this concept, I was just wondering what the difference is because if it actually works, I WILL do it just to catch the back end of my Blazer up with the t/b crank. Thanks in advance for the info. (P.S.- sorry about mentioning the "T" word earlier. It was the only 4x4 I had at the time!)
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the shackel is just a longer shackel then your stock one. all it does is space out the distance between the leaf spring and the body. yes it does add lift. about 2". and the shackels come in 2.5 and 3 i believe. also if your gonna do the t-bar crank in the front depending on how many miles and abuse your blazer took it would be a great idea to change your cv joints out cause this is going to put more strain on them. and if you have factory balljoints definetly replace them. i broke one in two going down the road and cut through 4 lanes of traffic. didn't hit anyone just had to change my pants.

 

The theory is making sense to me and I can picture it in my head, I just can't understand what keeps the spring from flattening out due to having longer rear travel due to a longer shackle. 2" of lift is worth the effort and I will take you at your word and try it. This is the first Chevy 4x4 I have attempted to modify. I have built a Bronco and a Toyota in the past with great success, but I got rid of both of them on my pathway to pursuing my plans of doing a CHEVROLET. I have always been a "bowtie" fan and am really excited about this build!

 

theres a bushing in between the bolt that holds the shackel on the leaf spring (dont know if that helps at all for visualizing) your basically getting a 2" lift kit for $60 (not including changing cv joints, balljoints) which is hard to beat.gl on your build. im stuck with a chevy not by choice. i'd rather to a build on an old ford (oh no he said the "f" word again) but im looking at an old k5.but chevy did make some things right like their engines. 4.3L are pretty much bulletproof as long as you keep up your maintence. im not a big fan of their wheel bearings though. but every vehicle has its goods and its bads

 

What brand of shackle are you suggesting? All vehicles are good as long as they are properly built and maintained. I did enjoy my Ford ('86 model, 3" body & 6" suspension lift, full interior roll cage, B&M shifter, 9000 lb. winch, custom front and rear bumpers, 37" Swampers on 15x10 aluminum wheels) but it got built beyond road-ability. Toyota was similar with all Marlin Crawler bumpers and body armor. Both vehicles were fun to wheel, but even more fun building with my brother's help!

 

the ones on ebay are suprisingly a decent shackle. i'd look their. or do a search on blazerforum for shackle lift

 

UPDATE:
My brother helped me put the new shackles on my blazer today. I think it looks good. Leveled the back end up with the front t/b crank. @2.5 lift front and back. Not bad for some $15 shackles, a little bit of reinforcement welding, and an hour of work!

 

you may want to reconsider a +2.5 t bar crank. the acceptable safe level is 2" and anything less than that is 'more safer'
the higher you go, the faster you burn up front end components....

 

You're right, I should clarify, the t/b is right at 2" and the rear is 2.5". My bad.