So, I have a 98 Blazer 4wd 4dr, its really clean and all stock except for a billet grille, and some tinted tails. I also leveled the front with the torsion bars. looking for a way to lift it (not high) maybe 3-4 inches without getting too in over my head, or having to throw a bunch of money into it. I also want it to be correct, no busting ball joints and all that. so, whats a good cheap,and effective way or kit to give it a little raise?

 

There really isnt one.

You could crank the tbars up the rest of the way, add lift shackles in the back to get you 2', then go with a 2' body lift for your 4' total. But with a full tbar crank youre risking balljoints/CVs like you said.

You can go with a full 5' or 6' kit, but those are $$....~$2000.

The only other option is a solid front axle...if you shop around for parts, you can do a SFA build for ~$1500 or less. But that's a little more involved than a kit

Why do you want 3-4' of lift? What size tires are you wanting to run?

 

I am just looking to make it more distinguishable. I just think that 3-4 inches would be reasonable, and then from there I would just put on a bigger set of tires. The tires on it now (cant think of the size) are fairly big, and i believe are the biggest that can "safely" fit on it without rubbing the frame.

 

If youre completely stock other than your leveling, the biggest is going to be 30x9.5 (up from the 235/70-75 stock, about 28.5x9). Body lifts look great on these trucks, and with a 2' body lift, and even just a bit more higher on the tbars (1.5'), you can fit 32s. You could fit 33x12.50s, but you'll have to cut a little bit of the bottom rear of the front wheel wells to clear them though.

Blazer with 2' tbar/shackle, 2' body lift, serious fender finessing and 33x12.50s (dissappeared member RCars2)


3.5' of lift with 30x10.50s (mine...the rims durastically reduce the size tire you can run without rubbage)

 

or you could always just get a 2 in. suspension an a 2 in body, total of 4 in.

 

^^ Thats what he already said^^

The t-bars and shackles is the 2" suspension lift. The kits you can buy also come with new control arms to help with the cv angles....

 

Some of the 2 inch suspension kits come with new ball joints too. I may be wrong but dont they do something to help with wear on ball joints instead of CVs but it might be the other way around.

 

http://www.roughcountry.com/ has a suspension lift kit with new control arms to correct the angles. Its around $400, thats what I plan on getting soon.

 

Just to get everyone's facts straight. The only ways the CV angle will change, is with longer (or shorter) CV shafts, if the wheel hub has changed position (up or down), or if the front axles has changed position.

When you adjust the torsion bar, it puts tension on the lower control arm which in turn pushes the wheel hub down (relative to the rest of the chassis). Now, the CV angles will be different than stock. The only way to correct the angle, is to lower the front axle ($$$$, that's why the big 5" or 6" kits cost so much money) or to get longer upper/lower control arms and longer CV shafts.

As far as I know, the Rough Country kit comes with new UCA's with upper ball joints already installed. It doesn't correct the CV angle.

Someone please correct me if I'm wrong on any of the above.

 

your correct on the Rough Country fact......from what Ive heard the RC lifts are not good at all